Electric shower leaking and produce static shock

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VIT

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Hello. I have a few years old Triton shower. The hose got twisted the other day and the shower started leaking. Then removed the hose leak was at the bottom of the shower).Ordered a new hose and head kit and replaced it(original plastic one to a chrome one). Still leaks both then on and off( dripps from the head of the shower continuously). Ordered a PRD device and was going to replace that but yesterday touched the head of the shower while it was on and it static/tingled my fingers... What could be an issue anyone, please? Is it worth replacing PRD and perhaps solenoid coil?
 
Honestly Triton showers are so cheap I would not mess about trying to fix it, just buy a new one. If you get the same sort then keep the old one as spares.

Might be best to get an electrician to check the wiring to the shower in particular to check the earthing is okay.
 
I'm very wary of electric showers, (although I have one), and would be downright scared of one which "tingled". Water and electricity are not a good mix. It isn't static; it's a fault ! And it deserves a professional checkout whilst you are alive to arrange one.
 
Hello. I have a few years old Triton shower. The hose got twisted the other day and the shower started leaking. Then removed the hose leak was at the bottom of the shower).Ordered a new hose and head kit and replaced it(original plastic one to a chrome one). Still leaks both then on and off( dripps from the head of the shower continuously). Ordered a PRD device and was going to replace that but yesterday touched the head of the shower while it was on and it static/tingled my fingers... What could be an issue anyone, please? Is it worth replacing PRD and perhaps solenoid coil?

From my experience over many years, replacing parts on an electric showers is rarely a cost effective solution.

As Pro dave says when balancing the cost of parts labour and faff -vs- just replace the whole shower.

Then registering the unit to get the 2-year manufactures warranty, is as far more reliable and cheaper solution.
 
Electric showers generally have two heating elements inside the water chamber...
(basically like a very small kettle with much higher power elements to heat a smaller amount of water).

There is also a dial or some buttons to select either Cold (No elements on), Heat 1/Low (one element one), Heat 2/High (both elements on)...

If one of the elements is damaged the live internal conductor of the element could allow electrical current to flow back via the water to earth..

If the shower is wired correctly via a 30ma RCD.. AND the RCD is working correctly it should trip the electrical supply off as soon as the leakage current via the water reaches somewhere between 16miliAmps & 30miliAmps...

If the shower is not connected via an RCD and/or the RCD is faulty.. Then the shower could "appear" to be working via the one element whilst also allowing a possibly dangerous fault current via the second faulty element...

Without some appropriate test meters it is pretty much impossible for a DIY person to accurately test/verify the circuit cables, RCD operation, Integrity of shower internal wiring/elements etc...

Whereas a competent electrician should be able to verify all of the above during a standard 1hour minimum call-out charge..
Which if not living in or around London.. should not be too expensive!

So as Andy said... Stop using it until you have had it properly checked over... Electricity can kill a healthy adult in less than a second...

Which is why a competent electrician will never design or install any alteration just to make something work...
They are always working to ensure ALL work will FAIL-SAFE.. i.e. disconnect the supply fast enough before anyone is injured or killed! Health & Safety Executive tend to enforce very strict rules if someone is killed due to negligent work!!
 
As mentioned turn the 45A isolator off do not use the shower until you have had it checked out by an Electrician.
 
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