Search results

The black and the red from the single switch should remain on its own on 1 side of the switch. The other 3 core should be totally separate on the other switch 2 way. Do you have a picture of the switch you have ?

Danlers  do one https://www.danlers.co.uk/outdoor-security-switches/26-products/outdoor/outdoor-security-switches/109-copd-compact-person-detector

On the old 2 gang switch was the  2 way for upstairs light and the 1 way for downstairs light? And are you replacing it with a 1 gang 1way? You may have 2 different circuits on different sides of rcd's and by connecting them together it will trip the rcd 

These have hidden flex outlets:  http://www.priorsrec.co.uk/heated-towel-rail-stourton-wall-mounted/p-41-1104-519

aren't the wago lever connectors any good - they go down to 0.08mm http://www.screwfix.com/p/2-way-lever-connector-222-series-pack-of-50/97689?cm_sp=Search-_-SearchRec-_-Area3&_requestid=84528#_=p

That's true it does depend on the masonry but if the masonry isn't up to scratch use a self tapper through the box instead.

The fixing plate has 4 fixing holes in the corners, in the corner of the back box drill through the back put a rawl plug then screw the plate back into the rawl plug. The sleeving over the screw does away with the sharp edge of the thread in the box. I have used this method before where the side...

I know the holes won't line up with the existing, but the fixing holes on the plate can be drilled and fixed through the opposite corners in the back box. Put a bit of sleeving over the screws to eliminate sharp edges it's a lot less mess than changing the box

If you have no side lugs you could try fixing these over the existing boxes then fit a normal socket http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/MKK2202.html

Also he doesn't mention cable size, how do we know its not 4mm or 6mm t/e? try getting that through a 10mm hole :innocent

i only said 20mm cos thats the standard knockout size in most electrical boxes, could be any size but if for any reason he wants to put a grommet in the drilled hole its the ideal size.

is there anything stopping you drilling a 20mm hole in the side of the box under or over the the fixing lugs??

Blue, I haven't been on here for a while but decided to poke my head in and see whats going on. I think i might have some pyro in our store at work - if you want to pm your address i'll post you a few metres with any pots seals etc i can find.

useful info here http://www.pyrosales.com.au/files/grabdoc.php?type=doc&id=165 but not sure if the cable diameters differ with different brands ---------- Post Auto-Merged at 21:58 ---------- Previous post was made at 21:40 ---------- actually the site has some interestind brochures for...

i normally drill round the outline of the box with a 6mm sds bit with the depth guage on the drill set just deeper than the box then use the chisel attachment to break it out and clean it up .

just cashed in some "bright " and its

there lies the problem

StoneLux Brick Repair and Tinting Pack ;)

can you not carefully chase out existing cables to the ceiling, extend with crimps and heat shrink, run parallel to the ceilng within the 150mm horizontal zone and drop down to new socket position. that way all safe zones are satisfied.

I know we all do mates and family favour jobs but just wondered if anyone can beat this. Not long after i got married my sister in law asked me round to install an outside light for her. bearing in mind they are a childless couple and absolutely loaded, after spending a few hours wiring and...