1gang metal Pattress boxes in kitchen too close together to fit faceplate . How do I move one a little to left .?Please advise

[Dusty'sDwarf]

Hi .
Whilst upgrading 1gang socket fixings I noticed that the new component is slightly larger than the previous .
Thus the faceplate won't clip on . It was already a tight squeeze before where I've got a row of sockets

 

[Dusty'sDwarf]

 

[Fleeting]

Moving it may not be easy it depends how secure it is in the brickwork. If the back box is screwed in losen the screws and with a wide bolster give it a hit to the left placing the bolster in the back angle.

 

[Andy™]

if its only a mm or 2 you can sometimes loosen both, get the screws in then screw back, keeping them pushed up against each other. otherwise not much you can do other than take the fixings out of the box and move it along a bit but that doesn't look possible without removing tiles and hacking away at the plaster / brick to get space for it to move along

 

[UNG]

I would cut down the side of the box with a multi-tool fitted with a carbide blade to give some space to move the box to the left
If you need to cut the tile then use a diamond blade in the multi-tool

 

[Murdoch]

Those sockets are horrible

 

[Fleeting]

Those sockets are horrible

I remember seeing some in these in a house a few years back they look terrible but each to their own I suppose.

 

[binky]

Buy a different make of socket

 

[kerching]

Fit white plastic Schneider or have a look at Eurolite

Experience tells not all accessories are equal...it all started with rope edged brass
Simples

 

[Geoff1946]

There is a good chance of loosening or breaking tiles if you aren't careful. I would be looking for different accessories.

 

[binky]

Fit white plastic Schneider or have a look at Eurolite

Experience tells not all accessories are equal...it all started with rope edged brass
Simples

Never had any problems with Hamilton decorative range

 

[Dusty'sDwarf]

My problems are with the size and weight of my multi-tool in such a precarious position, over the kitchen worktop tucked away into the corner .
I will have to nip to Aldi or Lidl and pick up a cheap Ferrex or Titan to cut away at the tile .
They did a real neat job on this . It's flush behind the tiling and he's puttied the edges for good measure . Again I can't chisel away at the sealant first cutting into the edge of that upper layer

 

[kerching]

I like ( liked ) Eurolite because they made it down the road from me. If I needed a special,I could ring them, give my preferred wholesalers name and if they had the bits in stock could collect within the hour. Unfortunately they have now gone back to,Carlisle

 

[UNG]

My problems are with the size and weight of my multi-tool in such a precarious position, over the kitchen worktop tucked away into the corner .
I will have to nip to Aldi or Lidl and pick up a cheap Ferrex or Titan to cut away at the tile .
They did a real neat job on this . It's flush behind the tiling and he's puttied the edges for good measure . Again I can't chisel away at the sealant first cutting into the edge of that upper layer

What multi-tool do you have as I can't think of one that would be too big or heavy to use on the job you have

 

[Dusty'sDwarf]

I got a macAllister MSMCS 500 but it's way to heavy like you said .
I went to Aldi and my local branch can't sell items with blades .
Luckily I got on the internet and watched some DIY rekt before browsing grinders . They are way too shaky and unstable even the ones with handles
Most of them are too heavy or cumbersome for a first jobber . There too much that can go wrong with half a blade proud from the guard .
But the 12v mini grinders or an attachment for my cordless drill is an option , not cheap either but it can get into small corners and is not unmanageable .

 

[SPECIAL LOCATION]

I got a macAllister MSMCS 500 but it's way to heavy like you said . or cumbersome for a first jobber . There too much that can go wrong with half a blade proud from the guard .
But the 12v mini grinders or an attachment for my cordless drill is an option , not cheap either but it can get into small corners and is not unmanageable .

Isn't a MCMCS 500 a mini circular saw not a multi-tool?
https://www.diy.com/departments/mac...corded-mini-saw-msmcs500/3663602795834_BQ.prd

Multi tools use oscillating blades and are easily controllable and ideal for cutting in delicate situations, such as what you need to do. (Not much different to when converting an existing flush single back-box to double.).
e.g.
https://www.screwfix.com/c/tools/mu...m_sp=managedredirect-_-powertools-_-multitool

 

[binky]

try one of these in your battery drill, unless you have a dremel to hand.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/dremel-952-grinding-stone-3-pack/65026

 

[Dusty'sDwarf]

try one of these in your battery drill, unless you have a dremel to hand.

https://www.screwfix.com/p/dremel-952-grinding-stone-3-pack/65026

Thanks for the links. I wasn't happy with the angle grinders I've seen .A multi tool looks ideal and has plenty of attachments . I have a choice between Dremel .Ryobi and Parkside

 

[UNG]

An Exakt saw with a diamond blade would be the ideal tool for this job if you need precision and would be the tool I would start with and then use a multi-tool to remove the plaster / filler at the side of the box

 

[binky]

Thanks for the links. I wasn't happy with the angle grinders I've seen .A multi tool looks ideal and has plenty of attachments . I have a choice between Dremel .Ryobi and Parkside

Parkside is fine for occasional use