cu change, fault fixing

[tom1]

in the switch, 1 core is perm live at 240. the other is also perm liveAre u using a multi meter for these tests?

When testing for these voltages, is the switch open or closed?

what type of switch is iteg dimmer?

For the 240 120 volts what reference are u using?

regards chris

might be wrong about that thiking about it. used my fluke voltage tester.

both cores display voltage even when you remove the switch

 

[a1spark]

Tom I did suggest testing between live and earth didnt i mate !

 

[tom1]

Tom I did suggest testing between live and earth didnt i mate !

you did mate, but i have not been able to get there today

 

[a1spark]

Oh ! Right o,k Tom.

 

[Ian Speirs]

When you are testing at the light switch and getting a 230v reading, try removing the lamp and if your reading drops to 0v or there abouts then i would deffo say its a switched neutral.

 

[tom1]

When you are testing at the light switch and getting a 230v reading, try removing the lamp and if your reading drops to 0v or there abouts then i would deffo say its a switched neutral.

lamp was out mate.

 

[Ian Speirs]

lamp was out mate.

Doesn't sound like a switched neutral any more then. :innocent How long has it been like this? Could be the neutral for that part of the circuit has been connected into the perm live at one of the pendants or jb somewhere by mitake. Think your gonna have to get some kind of access to the terminations to confirm.

 

[Nicky Tesla]

I was gunna say that:Salute

 

[Chr!s]

Tom

Too have 240 volts at the light you need a potential difference of 240 and 0 volts, the 0 being the neutral, which must be being switched or the light wouldn't work. I certainly doubt you have a balanced 120 volt symmetrical system in place.

For current to flow you need a difference in potential, i suggest you retest and make note of the readings because it don't seem to add up.

regards chris

 

[Andy™]

if its any help, had a similar kind of problem this morning - living room light permantly on. remove switch, all good, remove other switch, also good.

turn on power, light lights, even with all switch wires sticking out of wall

turns out the switch wire is faulty - 40 ohms between each conductor & to earth (ELCB didnt trip either!)

new switch wire later and all good. unfortunately, the new switch wire had to take a different route to existing, so never did find out what the fault was caused by

 

[a1spark]

[quote name='Andy

 

[Andy™]

a1 Spark

nope. CU was on other side of doorway, and customer was in a different room. turn power on, check, isolate.

 

[a1spark]

[quote name='Andy

 

[mosschop]

Use a hairdryer on the roses to heat it up a bit and in theory, should expand and hopefully unscrew

 

[Andy™]

Use a hairdryer on the roses to heat it up a bit and in theory, should expand and hopefully unscrew

i find a hammer has the same effect (not too hard though, dont want to break it!). or a bit harder if you do want to break it