Electrical supply for brewing beer question

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Beno73

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Hi Fella's

I'm not an Electrician but I need your help to brew beer. I want to purchace a brewing system that is capable of brewing about 65l but it is a 15amp appliance. Obviouslly the UK sockets are 13amp but want your help to find out if i should swap out he socket to a 15amp, 16amp commando or just leave it as it is?

What would be the safest way of combating this problem?

It will be in a domestic house, or internal garage i shoud say and the garage runs off it's own breaker, the wire is 2.5 twin and earth.

Cheers

Ben
 
that is a lot of current to heat beer?
do you have a link for the unit you want?,
would this be from the good old US of A ?
 
I wonder if it is the Brewzilla kit thingy 😳 its from a UK based company and it does state you need a 15A dedicated supply.
 
i see its 3500w, (off topic but why would you need so much heat , would that not kill the yeast? looks more like a still with that worm,)

sorry Beno73 but you will need to get someone in to add a circuit if this is what you have
 
Wow! You guys are quick at replying. thank you.

Yes it's a Kegland Brewzilla Gen 4 check it out. The 35l is only 13A but the 65L is 15A, they are Australian standard so obviously they have different requirements.

Yes it's alot of Amps for a heater but it also pushes a pump at the same time, I guess with the heating up 65l of water, grain and to pump it around requires alot of power. I won't be brewing the max amount so won't be pushing the 15A max.
 
that is a lot of current to heat beer?
do you have a link for the unit you want?,
would this be from the good old US of A ?
I'm at work so can get onto the web site as they block beer sites lol. But if you google Kegland brewzilla 65L in Australia, looks amazing! Kegland have the best products at a reasonable price too.
 
I wonder if it is the Brewzilla kit thingy 😳 its from a UK based company and it does state you need a 15A dedicated supply.
When you say a dedicated supply do you mean I'll need to change out the Wire etc to the breaker? If so what size wire etc will I need? Yes it's a Kegland brewzilla 65L from Australia.
 
I
i see its 3500w, (off topic but why would you need so much heat , would that not kill the yeast? looks more like a still with that worm,)

sorry Beno73 but you will need to get someone in to add a circuit if this is what you have
Won't need the max heat when brewing. first stage will be around 65c and the second stage is at boiling temp. After you do the boil you cool the wort and put it in the fermenter, that's when you add the yeast, then the magic happens. I guess they put a 3500w for the max amount of volume and pump rate for the max amount of time so the unit can handle the load. Will nowhere be close to the max load when I will be brewing.

do you mind elaborating on adding a circuit? I'm not up to speed to your level of experience. Cheers.
 
add dedicated circuit by putting a new cable from the consumer unit to the point of use, on its own MCB/ RCD/RCBO depending local conditions
 
Beno73, just wondering, you are importing it from Australia to Scotland? (Your location says you are in Scotland)
 
Beno73, just wondering, you are importing it from Australia to Scotland? (Your location says you are in Scotland)
Not importing but buying from a company from UK who made me aware if this problem and yes, I do live in Scotland. He's only selling this to people who has the understanding that they need to combat this electrical matter. Hence asking you guys.

I am actually from Australia but I've lived in UK for some time, this product is only a coincidence that it is from Australia.

I was hoping to find an easy solution but it look like I have to recircuit cables. If it wasn't such a good product I wouldn't bother and just buy it's rival but here I am. Grr
 
i see its 3500w, (off topic but why would you need so much heat , would that not kill the yeast? looks more like a still with that worm,)

sorry Beno73 but you will need to get someone in to add a circuit if this is what you have
Hey mate, Are you saying that 3500w is 15A? I'm pretty sure that there is a function to reduce the output on the unit itself. If I do this could I put it on a 13A socket? If so what will the max wattage be? Obviously it won't go to the units max potential but for the brew's I'll be doing I wouldn't get that high anyway. Also the unit would be at it's full potential even if it was set at 3500w and it will be on for a max of 1.5 hours.
 
You have a 2.5 radial into the garage so there is no big deal to fit a 16A socket outlet.
 
You have a 2.5 radial into the garage so there is no big deal to fit a 16A socket outlet.
The garage has it's own 2.5 and MCB, when I'm brewing there won't be any else on besides the lights but obviously they have their own circuit.
 
What size mcb is it currently on and does it have 30ma rcd protection. A pic of your consumer unit would be handy.
 
Oh cr
What size mcb is it currently on and does it have 30ma rcd protection. A pic of your consumer unit would be handy.
Oh crap! I'm at work, I work offshore so won't be home for another 3 weeks. I wouldn't have a clue to be honest. What size should I have and if it isn't the correct one then I'll go out and get one?
 
Ideally a 16A socket should be on a 16A device but it is permissible to have it on 20A. 20A takes into consideration multiple 16A sockets on a single radial but for a single socket I consider 16A to be correct.
 
Ideally a 16A socket should be on a 16A device but it is permissible to have it on 20A. 20A takes into consideration multiple 16A sockets on a single radial but for a single socket I consider 16A to be correct.
Understood.

Also a 15A pulls 3450w but I can reduce the wattage on the settings by 13% that will bring it down to about 3000w which is slightly over 13A? Is that right for to say that or am I talking shit?
 
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