end to end high resistance

[tom1]

small job of adding a socket for a wall mounted tv. nice and easy. take off the socket i am going to spur from

do a quick end to end

N0 .28

E0.5

L >99kohms

job just got bigger.

went and tested each socket same results

job just got bigger

so i think it must be high resistant joint in a socket behined the kitchen unit,

or in the celling

or a drilled through cable thats been jointed badly?

so best route is to split the ring into radials were the fault is?

 

[sparkytim]

As you do not know where the fault is yet then that would possibly cut-off any sockets between that point and the fault.

That would help you find it of course, and some times the quickest way, however dead continuity tests may be the safer way to do it.

 

[tom1]

As you do not know where the fault is yet then that would possibly cut-off any sockets between that point and the fault.That would help you find it of course, and some times the quickest way, however dead continuity tests may be the safer way to do it.

both legs of the ring work so continuity is the way forward

 

[Nicky Tesla]

This advice is not for D.I.Yers cos it can be dangerous in the wrong Hands.

First make an extension lead up with a plug at either end( this is the dangerous bit cos if the power is on then that means if plugged in at one end then the other plug may be live if the cct is still on).

mr tesla

from both a laymans point of view

and a moderators

i have concerns that this practice is being suggested

Then take out the lives from the MCB and check for continuity. If it is high then check out the socket arrangement and see if you can work out which is the first and last socket. Plug your test lead into these and recheck for continuity. If it is now low you have bridged the break. Now from trial and error, you can reposition the test leads to different sockets to locate at which area the break is. Then investigate for nails in walls etc.

i think it prudent to strongly point out

that the above suggestion

would not be a safe proceedure

the forum

its administrators and moderators

in no way condone the use of such a proceedure

mr smith

 

[kme]

"high resistance joint" won`t give you >99Kohms mate.

Kill the cct, split the phase wires at the DB, and do a variant of an "r2" test between one leg and each socket - should provide you with minimal ohmic values until you get past the break; then a sudden jump to your 99K. Section with problem is then known.

HTH

KME

edit: Mr. Tesla has put his suggestion above; which, by his own admission, could be unsafe / downright dangerous.

There ARE proper proceedures for resolving this type of fault. I would reccomend you use those, rather than the dangerous practice advocated above.

KME

 

[Nicky Tesla]

KME just opening up a fuse board is dangerous mate in the wrong hands. It is only having an extension cable with a plug on each end that is dangerous not the method. My way saves a lot of time and is perfectly safe if the cct is "killed" as you have said in your suggestion.

My way you could just croc clip your meter test leads to the ends at the MCB and set it to beep if continuity is found. This way it is obviously "killed" and you can go round with your plug leads at a much faster pace.

 

[kme]

That`s fine, as long as you don`t accidentally plug into a socket which isn`t on the ring - cue large bang, expensive meter repair & possible injury.

 

[tom1]

]"high resistance joint" won`t give you >99Kohms mate.Kill the cct' date=' split the phase wires at the DB, and do a variant of an "r2" test between one leg and each socket - should provide you with minimal ohmic values until you get past the break; then a sudden jump to your 99K. Section with problem is then known.

HTH

KME

edit: Mr. Tesla has put his suggestion above; which, by his own admission, could be unsafe / downright dangerous.

There ARE proper proceedures for resolving this type of fault. I would reccomend you use those, rather than the dangerous practice advocated above.

KME[/quote']

so what the most likely cause of the high resistance mate?

 

[kme]

If you`re reading an actual value, rather than O/C; I`d expect damaged cable, or possibly terminal screw biting insulation. It is far more common to have an O/C (don`t forget, if items are still plugged into the circuit, you could be reading a resistance path through appliances plugged in on either side of the damage (i.e. through the appliance load, down the neutral, through the second appliance load, and back to your live.....) So you may have an O/C without it showing up, unless you`ve disconnected ALL loads, and switched off any sockets / spurs fitted with neons.

 

[Andy™]

so what the most likely cause of the high resistance mate?

no connection - i.e wire fallen out of terminal. or drilled through and conductor O/C

 

[tom1]

If you`re reading an actual value, rather than O/C; I`d expect damaged cable, or possibly terminal screw biting insulation. It is far more common to have an O/C (don`t forget, if items are still plugged into the circuit, you could be reading a resistance path through appliances plugged in on either side of the damage (i.e. through the appliance load, down the neutral, through the second appliance load, and back to your live.....) So you may have an O/C without it showing up, unless you`ve disconnected ALL loads, and switched off any sockets / spurs fitted with neons.

[quote name='Andy

 

[kme]

Did you have a "high" reading, or an O/C reading??

 

[tom1]

Did you have a "high" reading, or an O/C reading??

high reading mate circuit was closed

 

[kme]

If there`re only six sockets, it shouldn`t be too difficult to track down which of the seven pieces of cable contains the fault.............

KME

 

[tom1]

If there`re only six sockets, it shouldn`t be too difficult to track down which of the seven pieces of cable contains the fault.............KME

yer it aint all that bad. prob were a wall unit been put up. i would have thought horizontal runs would be better in kitchens

 

[kme]

Doesn`t really make a difference. I`ll run them either horizontally or vertically, dependant on situation.

Funny enough, kitchens I tend to loop up from below worktop level, as I`ll put sockets above and below worktop; from the same cct.

 

[Nicky Tesla]

i checked every socket for lose connection and screw biting the insulation.

You would not need to do do that if you tried my suggestion did you not fancy it? your a distinguished member, so likely to be competent? or do you not understand how you use the test lead? Will help if req.

 

[kme]

Perhaps the O/P wanted to do things correctly?

 

[Nicky Tesla]

its a test lead thats all, wots the problem

 

[kme]

I`ve known someone who was killed by a lead like the one you describe.

It had been made, for whatever reason (he had it when I first met him). Working in an HMO type property; where the token meter was out of credit, so he connected it between the bedsit in question & next door.

The painter & decorator unplugged it, to plug something else in.........

The painter and decorator didn`t survive.

So maybe I`m a little over-sensitive on this issue; but, experience says that if you make up a lead liker the one you describe, you`ll use it, in situations like the one above.....its human nature.

If you haven`t got one, you won`t. Simple as.

I don`t want to hear of anyone else being killed as a result of "short-cut" tricks & tips; and I don`t suppose anyone on the forum wants to test out the culpability protection engendered by the forum.

KME