Fault finding switch start fluorescent lighting

[OzWiz]

Hi all,

Just wondering if there is an estabolished recognised procedure for fault finding fluorescent lighting. Thinking in terms of exam question or nvq assessor question rather than actual real world stuff...

Cheers.

 

[Evans Electric]

I can only do "Real World" stuff, Ozzy, someone will come in with the college boy answer no doubt. :coat

 

[sparkytim]

NVQ Question

"Explain the fault diagnosis and rectification procedure, when a Fluorescent lamp glows at both ends but will not strike"

?:|

 

[mikel]

Evans Electric Please can you give us an idea how you would fault find in the real world please, I, for one would find it usefulray

 

[Andy™]

generally change starter & tube. if it still doesnt light, new ballast. but its usually easier to replace the fitting (unless its a grid, and you can get a spare ballast that will fit)

 

[mikel]

Thats in general what I do. Didn't know if there was any other way of testing it. What about if it is a grid and has a battery pack as emergency lighting as well

 

[Andy™]

you can usually get replacement batteries

 

[Ray4438]

T.I.S are doing a tester that when you hold the probe to the flourescent lamp it glows letting you know lamp is ok cost

 

[OzWiz]

In the real world it's usually the starter, tube or ballast or occasionally a capacitor. But since we have structured procedures for safe isolation, test sequences etc, i thought there might be one for this as well.

I am expecting this question to rear its head in the next few weeks, that's all...

Cheers for the input, that meter sounds very handy...

 

[ProDave]

If the tube is glowing at both ends, then you know you have continuity and the heaters are coming on. So the fault CAN only be tube, starter or ballast.

If it's a twin tube fitting but only one starter, check the correct series starter is fitted, a normal one won't strike 2 tubes.

If it's not even flickering and trying to start, it's probably the starter, so swap that first as it's cheapest and easiest.

Faults are harder to find when the tube is not glowing, then you have a continuity issue, which could be an o/c heater at one end of the tube, a faulty tube connector. o/c ballast etc.

Like others, it's not worth the time in the real world diagnosing anything other than an EM light fitting if it can't be fixed in say 15 minutes.

 

[Evans Electric]

The others have covered it Mikel, in their usual proffesional way. As Prodave says , with the smaller ,say 4 lamp X 2ft recessed fitting, an FSU starter probably wont work, need , a series starter is needed, also if one tube craps out , both will go out .

General senario , with no spares on the van, is feed there ,Yes - take tube from another,working fitting , does it work ?,No --Take starter from other fitting , does it work ? .....Yes .

Return with new tube and starter .

Hint: Always clean the tube/ diffuser /flat sheet often customer will ask you to clean the whole office . Also ,stick a Triphospher Cool White in , the difference is very noticable to the old Whites, again customer may ask for full re-lamping. ; )