Grid switch's for appliances

Talk Electrician Forum

Help Support Talk Electrician Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

diydave

New member
Joined
Sep 27, 2016
Messages
4
Reaction score
0
Location
scotland
I am time served but been many many years since I did any type of domestic work so looking for a little advise and guidance.

I have been asked by a friend if i can re-wire his new kitchen. He currently has switched spurs above his worktop for each appliance but has seen the MK Grid switch system in some show homes and fancies that.

From my understanding they are to be mounted locally to the appliances as per the regs but "locally" appears to be open to interpretation. He has asked if I can mount it in his utility room adjacent to the kitchen so as more pleasing to the eye. Is this OK to do ?

Also if using a 2.5mm cable broken through a fuse for each grid switch when it comes to the oven grid switch would it still need to be a 6mm broken through that as all new ovens these days come with a small flex and moulded plug on the end ?

As i said it's been a while and I just want to keep myself right so any help or advice would be great.

thanks

 
Dave, put the switches somewhere discreet in the kitchen if they are to in there, and the same for the utility room. Why not run each appliance off of its own circuit? You wouldnt likely need the same sized cable and if there is a fault then only one circuit needs to be worked on.

Andy Guinness

 
Hi Andy,

He has the following. hob igniter, oven, microwave, washing machine, dishwasher, fridge/freezer, extract, boiler.

I was just going to use 3 x 4 gang grid with a grid fuse holder for each, and just use the kitchen ring broken through the fuses with radials from the load side of the switches to the outlets for each appliance. 

The boiler will have it's own supply fused right at the boiler. he just wants to be able to switch them all off from this one multi gang grid if he is away for long periods. And going by the finish he wants there really is nowhere discreet to put that hence the utility room idea.

I know the purpose of these switches locally but in the 12 years I have been in my house I have only ever used the spur to switch off my fridge/freezer once a year to fully defrost the freezer. 

cheers

 
as all new ovens these days come with a small flex and moulded plug on the end ?


Only the lower power ones. I am not convinced it is good practice to supply ovens off a 13A plug, even though it may be within the manufacturers specification.

Doc H.

 
Doc H

I agree but just wanted to ask as was pretty sure a 6mm was still the best way for the oven.

 
I wouldn'd say isolation in the next room is acceptable Dave ,  doesn't matter how many times your own spur has been used ,  the Regs is the Regs . 

Theres a cooker switch next to my cooker , I switched it on 5 years ago and not touched it since but if the cooker burst into flames at least I could switch the power off.  

Thats like saying I never had a fire so I won't fit smoke alarms. 

Theres a purpose made grid switch for kitchens with the appliances marked on the plate,  DP switches with the output down to a single socket by each device. Fuse protection is in the plug tops. 

You can put the  isolators in another room I suppose  if thats what the customer wants ,  Not sure how many contractors would do it though ,  Ah just noticed you are up there over the border so no Part Pee but the same Regs apply in Scotland I believe . 

Local isolation means ....local isolation I'm thinking .  

 
Why not mount the grid switch within the lower kitchen cupboard? I'm currently in a development whereby the developer wants just that, so have utilised the small 300 cupboard and had kitchen fitter install a false front (upright) to top shelf. This way the grid switch is mounted on the false upright and is at the front of the cupboard for easy access. 

I'll get a couple of pics tomorrow to demonstrate. 

 
Cheers Evans Electric. I have ordered a set of the 17th edition regs as i have been advised the local isolation part is almost open to interpretation "no specific distances quoted from each appliance etc" but I want to check for myself. Although if my cooker burst into flames i sure as hell wouldn't go next to the fire to switch off it's isolator.

Sharpen if you could I would appreciate that, Looking at my friends proposal of where he wants to position them it may be in the utility linked to his kitchen but the DP grid switches will be no more than 10-12 feet from any appliance which I hoped would still be local enough. 

thanks for opinions so far guys.

 
I would never class a different room as local, even if there wasn't a door present, 

Similar to @SharpendI have used a small cupboard , actually the drawer, modified to drop down with magnetic latches, and the switches behind the drawer front. The drawer didn't actually work, but it left the cupboard to be used as a wine/beer rack. 

 
I have used a small cupboard , actually the drawer, modified to drop down with magnetic latches, and the switches behind the drawer front. The drawer didn't actually work, but it left the cupboard to be used as a wine/beer rack. 


I thought this was a stipulation to all of your customers, there must be a suitable wine/beer rack, (stocked & chilled), adjacent to all local isolation points for accessories. This to satisfy the regulation about minimising inconvenience whilst you are attending to a single fault, No good going to work just for the money.

Doc H.

 
I thought this was a stipulation to all of your customers, there must be a suitable wine/beer rack, (stocked & chilled), adjacent to all local isolation points for accessories. This to satisfy the regulation about minimising inconvenience whilst you are attending to a single fault, No good going to work just for the money.

Doc H.


Along with the lady of the house in fetching lingerie to "attend" as required? :)

If Carlsberg wrote the regs maybe!

 
Top