How to route flexible cable in a roof cavity, over distance and around corners and obstacles?

[Tommygunn]

I'm looking to install a DIY burglar alarm system but I'm trying to figure out how to route the flexible alarm cable from one end of a room to another without it bunching up, and being blocked by corners and obstructions in the suspended ceiling.

What I have is an open plan living room/kitchen/dining room area where the majority of the ceiling is suspended plaster board afixed to a grid of 'angle iron', so to speak, with an approx 15cm gap between the solid ceiling and the board. Within this there are many obstructions and corners and of course the distance to cover.

My question is, are there any tricks of the trade, that from one small entry hole to the other, is there a foolproof method of threading the cables without them getting bunched up, blocked or lost in the cavity.

See the link below for photos of the ceiling.

Cheers,

Tom.

 

[Barx]

The lid off some t2 trunking is ideal for this. Its know in the trade as a 'fish' lol. Kink the end up a little if you have small obsticles to go over. And if you hit something try twisting it over. By the way, don't forget to tape your cable on to the back end for you to pull through once you found you fish at the other end. Hope I explained that well enough.

 

[SLIPSHOD & SLAPDASH]

Cable Rods - SuperRod Push-Pull Rod Sets

 

[revjames]

MT2 lid as above or invest a few quid (relatively cheap) in a set of rods....

 

[m4tty]

What about a wireless alarm? Be much easier for a DIY

 

[SPECIAL LOCATION]

Cable Rods - SuperRod Push-Pull Rod Sets

Our local ALDI has some cheapo versions of these cable rods....

May be a useful purchase for this DIY application.?

:coffee

---------- Post Auto-Merged at 11:57 ---------- Previous post was made at 11:56 ----------

What about a wireless alarm? Be much easier for a DIY

Till you keep getting false signals & the batteries go flat.....

:|

 

[Barx]

Personally I prefer lids to rods. Super rods are good but expensive an too stiff. The cheaper ones snap,splinter or the ends fall off. Bloddy hurts when you get a fiberglass splinter in you finger.

 

[Steve3948]

You could train a mouse if you have time

 

[steptoe]

plastic bag

some string

and an airline.

works at its best in a duct though. :|

 

[kerching]

Super Rods...probably one of the best investments I ever made. I got the mid range set, then added the Mega Set, then added some other bits. Then made some adapters so the accessories fit my other BT rods and Katimax reeled fibre ducting sets. I am 'Cable rod rich' DON'T buy the cheap sets, they are fricking carp and fibre splinters really hurt, and the rod ends fall and/or snap off...some of the Hellerman stuff only has the hooks glued into the connector. A quick tug and its all over, reminds me of a gir.......................

 

[ProDave]

Spring Steel fish tape is my weapon of choice Spring Steel Fish Tape | Screwfix.com

The advantage over the cable rods, is being spring steel, you can pre bend it to a particular shape to go round an obstruction.

Mine has got me out of bother many times.

 

[Evans Electric]

I also find that 20mm PVC conduit is useful. Put an end box on which gives a curved approach to obstacles, shove a length across ceiling then couple another on , don't glue it , tape it , if it gets stuck you can twist it round and make it "walk" sideways.

And the old trusted method of, find an existing cable that goes the same way , disconnect it, tie a drag wire on and your new cable .

 

[Tommygunn]

Thanks for the input everyone, it has certainly given me some ideas.

Definately sticking to a wired alarm simply because I don't trust the wireless system and all that extra electronics and batteries that can go wrong, plus the extra cost.

Thanks,

Tom.

 

[kme]

Personally I prefer lids to rods. Super rods are good but expensive an too stiff. The cheaper ones snap,splinter or the ends fall off. Bloddy hurts when you get a fiberglass splinter in you finger.

Just a quick comment.

On the thread t`other night, about the drain. The access to the sewage pipe was a vertical 4" pipe, approx 3ft long, which ends directly above the sewer line.

Now, the first attempt to get something "down & round" was a hose pipe - but it just buckled up, cos it didn`t have the rigidity.

I thought about my super rods, but couldn`t think how to get em around a 4" 90 degree bend without snapping

push `em through the hose pipe

It provides the currrrrve for the rod to follow - may be handy for someone else, sometime