Jeez those things are good,,,, I fitted one in someone's porch because the switch for the light was halfway down their hall
Installing A Push Switch For A Bathroom
- Thread starter angellonewolf
- Start date
Help Support Talk Electrician Forum:
Doc Hudson
Moderator
- Joined
- Oct 21, 2008
- Messages
- 5,620
- Reaction score
- 230
Angellonewolf redo the wires, do the job properly and use something like one of these or similar, In the long you you will be far happier with the result. http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Wiring_Accessories_Menu_Index/Occupancy_Switch/index.html
Doc H.
Doc H.
angellonewolf
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 26, 2012
- Messages
- 56
- Reaction score
- 0
thanks guys yes i prob decided on the way to got as am in the midle of the job before asking and with having problems with a pir before thought this would be a good idea
no it was my 11 year old that had to come back from his mates to switch it off
but please back to my question push switch ?
or change to moment senser but that would have more problems if having a shower curtain as will have to have one over the shower as well
my thoughts on two switches in parallel was my simple way of fixing the problem yes shorten the pull cord he wont be able to pull the cord but will be able to press the switch to let him use the toilet and i will prob give it 5 or 7 mins on the timer so as you dont get left in the dark and when any one is using the shower they can pull the cord to switch the light and fan on at the same time
poss not very power saving as letting the light stay on for 5-7 mins at a time when poss it my only need 3 mins but its a lot better then him switching it on at 6.30 in the morning and someone switching it off at 8.30 before leaving for work
and yes the light will be on when in the shower in the day time but again for 10 mins at a time and our bathroom is not that light and im not going to put in a bigger window just to compensate for the lack of light lol but if the light is on when we have a shower say even with the amount of us in the house thats 3 showers a day and 10 toilet brakes with a 28 watt light (forgetting the fan as this is needed when shower or toilet is in use)and 30 mins for the shower and 50 mins for the toilet brakes total lets call it 90 mins a day for ease so thats 90x365 = 32400 watts in a year or 324 kw at an average cost of 20pence per kw 324x20p= £64.8 a year if i cut that in half buy using movement sensers i will only cut that down to £32 ? if my calcs are ok please say if i have missed some thing as this seams to cheap ?
no it was my 11 year old that had to come back from his mates to switch it off
but please back to my question push switch ?
or change to moment senser but that would have more problems if having a shower curtain as will have to have one over the shower as well
my thoughts on two switches in parallel was my simple way of fixing the problem yes shorten the pull cord he wont be able to pull the cord but will be able to press the switch to let him use the toilet and i will prob give it 5 or 7 mins on the timer so as you dont get left in the dark and when any one is using the shower they can pull the cord to switch the light and fan on at the same time
poss not very power saving as letting the light stay on for 5-7 mins at a time when poss it my only need 3 mins but its a lot better then him switching it on at 6.30 in the morning and someone switching it off at 8.30 before leaving for work
and yes the light will be on when in the shower in the day time but again for 10 mins at a time and our bathroom is not that light and im not going to put in a bigger window just to compensate for the lack of light lol but if the light is on when we have a shower say even with the amount of us in the house thats 3 showers a day and 10 toilet brakes with a 28 watt light (forgetting the fan as this is needed when shower or toilet is in use)and 30 mins for the shower and 50 mins for the toilet brakes total lets call it 90 mins a day for ease so thats 90x365 = 32400 watts in a year or 324 kw at an average cost of 20pence per kw 324x20p= £64.8 a year if i cut that in half buy using movement sensers i will only cut that down to £32 ? if my calcs are ok please say if i have missed some thing as this seams to cheap ?
stick in either a 16w 2D,
or even better, an LED 2D lookalike,
personally I have a 16w 2D and it is on from about dusk til morning, its really not a lot to run in the big scheme of things,
more money could be saved by turning all your standby items off.
or even better, an LED 2D lookalike,
personally I have a 16w 2D and it is on from about dusk til morning, its really not a lot to run in the big scheme of things,
more money could be saved by turning all your standby items off.
Sharpend
"It Just Is"
Why not just go for a fully automated switch that you can switch off from your remote or smartphone? May cost a bit more but would put you at ease of leaving the light on?
28w 2D lamps really need to be left on about 20 min or there life expectancy will severely drop, its a common problem on staircase lighting with automatic switching. Led is probably the way to go .
- Joined
- Feb 27, 2008
- Messages
- 11,018
- Reaction score
- 0
It winds me up when people leave lights on but life is to short to worry about things like this. I have fitted PIR's in the past this certainly is the way to go.
angellonewolf
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 26, 2012
- Messages
- 56
- Reaction score
- 0
what ampage is a 2d 28 watt light and a nomal 6 inch fan going to take?
thanks angel
thanks angel
28w+40w(?)/230v=0.29A
(?) = guess that fan uses 40w
As Sipshod said in previous post 2d lamps are not good for on/off on/off LED would be more suitable and less waatts.
angellonewolf
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 26, 2012
- Messages
- 56
- Reaction score
- 0
will replace with 2d led at a later date as got light fitting all ready will just get a 2d led later once running
what ip rating will i need for a movement sencer for the bathroom
what ip rating will i need for a movement sencer for the bathroom
I recommend this one http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SMSLFM360.html Have fitted loads
Edit, just noticed it says 22w max for low energy. Either there is a different model or they have dropped the rating due to problems.
PS, Whats the difference that affects the loadings between a 16W 2D (That's classed as low energy) & a 18W 2ft tube (apart from 2W)
Edit, just noticed it says 22w max for low energy. Either there is a different model or they have dropped the rating due to problems.
PS, Whats the difference that affects the loadings between a 16W 2D (That's classed as low energy) & a 18W 2ft tube (apart from 2W)
Does it not mean 22W minimum.
Stick a Danlers Capload across fitting and 16,22 would be fine.
Stick a Danlers Capload across fitting and 16,22 would be fine.
pewter
Conspiracy Theorist™
This morning at the wholesaler I see a range of 2d type bulkhead fitting , with LED and option of microwave sensor built in.
Just realised the fan requirements here , so built in sensor would not be a good option
Just realised the fan requirements here , so built in sensor would not be a good option
Similar threads
