installing electricity into a log cabin

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Patch, you can't use an M/C CU, its not dust tight.
Nor is the one the OP wants? I chose m/c to terminate the SWA into!

Is this because he wants to use power tools and create dust? Design installation to be fit for intended use?

You can have an IP55 one for less money!

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/30154/Electrical-Supplies/Consumer-Units/Square-D-Consumer-Units/Square-D-2-Way-RCD-Garage-Consumer-Unit

You would also need dust tight lights.
I was thinking of the double IP56 1500mm light from TS that I have used in our shed! That was where I got my price from

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Lighting/Commercial+Lighting/Weatherproof+Fluorescent+Light+IP65+1500+Twin/d220/sd2768/p34106

:D

 
That consumer unit looks a bit crap. You could get a decent make garage unit, a couple of metal clad double sockets, an a far better light for the same money and have complete versatility over which breakers you fit etc. If we assume the table saw to be 2000W, lets go crazy and whack a 1500W heater in there, and 250W for lights

Total of 3750W or 16A.

We know distance is 15m so TLC's calculator suggests we could get away with 1.5mm 3 core SWA.

1.5mm Multicore armored mv/A/m = 29 table 4D4B PG 281

(29x16.3Ax15m) / 1000 = 7.09v..

Just over border line of max permissible voltdrop 6.9v for light circuits

and that doesn't include the length of cable inside the cabin..

This would be poor design using 1.5mm SWA IMHO

Never trust a Vet with an on-line calculator to design your circuits..

A classic example of where a competent DIY can forget or miss a few key points that the qualified electrician naturally takes in his stride...

Everyone can do a cheap job... with inappropriate materials!

Materials

Garage unit m/c (with breakers)
 
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