Intermediate switch wiring

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Hi murdoc , no,  only four that can control landing lights  

bottom of stairs , top left , opposite right and a bathroom which has a switch to light bathroom and another for landing

 
So you have a ‘normal’ switch at the downstairs, you then should have two intermediates, then a ‘normal’ switch at the bathroom. 
Are you happy to drop the switches and get some pics of the cables and terminations, we’d have a better idea of what you’ve got. 

 
All work fine But dependant on one  

switch position.  It's crazy !  If you turn on a light on or off , at whatever place ,

it has to do so,   It cannot be dependent on what one switch position  is at to work 

 
Will do sharpens.    I'll post some pictures      That's it single  2 

intermediate then a single 

 
Much appreciated Sharpend ,   I will send some pictures and diagrams .   My understanding is intermediate switches , can be  grey to grey , black to black , diagonal or straight , as long as it corresponds the  with the other each switches . 

I am happy for correction .    Will send showing the wiring .    I say again , how grateful I am , for yours and others in helping me understand what is going on .

 
Much appreciated Sharpend ,   I will send some pictures and diagrams .   My understanding is intermediate switches , can be  grey to grey , black to black , diagonal or straight , as long as it corresponds the  with the other each switches . 

I am happy for correction .    Will send showing the wiring .    I say again , how grateful I am , for yours and others in helping me understand what is going on .


Don't get TOO specific about cable colours as there is no standard about which colours are used between 2-way, 3-way, 4-way etc switch wiring... 

The Key bits you need to identify are..

{A}  somewhere one wire will be a PERMANENT live supply from the fuse box..

{B} somewhere one wire will be a SWITCHED live output to the light (or lights) that the switches operate..

{C} there will be a lot of wires (generally termed strappers) between the various switches..  All of the strappers are technically LIVE conductors so should be identified as BROWN, but they may be almost any colour, but should be sleeved as brown!

 

A voltage tester + a continuity tester + a competent electrician should be able to suss out exactly what's what  in around half hour to one hour max....

If you are struggling, It may be quicker to just get some professional help.

 

:C

:coffee  

 

 
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Thanks ,   Yes I drew it as it is.     Kerching.   It all works fine apart from the what I've said above.   Nothing has gone bang ever , and  its never cut out at the main box.    

 If its a double pole switch then that's a start  .    Cheers for trying , much appreciated.      Don't know what you mean I bet it all goes pants ?    Its been working like this for nine year!    The thing 

is its been working wrong ,  not fully wrong , just a bit wrong.    If it goes flash bang when you turn the lights on , then that's fully wrong.   All the lights themselves go  on and off completely fine.

Its just that switch.    

 
To explain what Kerching is saying, the last (right) switch is Designed to isolate both the L and N sides of the switch when switched, now it may not be neutral in this case as it should have been An intermediate switch. 
so by replacing this switch for the correct switch then it should work as required. 
 

by pants he means you get the problem that you are experiencing.  😁😁

 
Cheers guys ,  will do what you say.    Seems to make good sense.    Appreciate your kind efforts to assist me in trying to understand this .   The drawing is correct, I took the plates off today and made notes , making sure I drew it exactly how it is.   Will let you know.    

 
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