Is There A Modern Version Of The Es E27 Bulb Which Will Work With A Light Sensor?

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peterfoster

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I wonder if someone could advise me, please.

We have two external lights out the front (you know - those mock mini-street lights) which take a screw-in 100w ES E27 bulb. The bulbs only last about 6 weeks before they blow so a few years ago we bought 50 for about £20. At the time we thought we might get a bulb which is a bit more modern, a bit more expensive but which would last a lot longer. The problem was (and is) that the two lights turn themselves on and off via a light-sensor which is fixed to the side of the house. We were told at the time that any sort of bulb other than the "old school" ES E27 wouldn't work with the light sensor. Well, we only have about 6 of the 50 bulbs left so we either have got to buy another 50 or, hopefully, there's something on the market now which is more modern (and more expensive and will last longer....) but which will turn itself off in the morning and on in the evening via the light sensor.

Thanks.

 
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Welcome to the forum, i have edited you post to make the text larger.

Doc H.

 
I wonder if someone could advise me, please.

We have two external lights out the front (you know - those mock mini-street lights) which take a screw-in 100w ES E27 bulb. The bulbs only last about 6 weeks before they blow so a few years ago we bought 50 for about £20. At the time we thought we might get a bulb which is a bit more modern, a bit more expensive but which would last a lot longer. The problem was (and is) that the two lights turn themselves on and off via a light-sensor which is fixed to the side of the house. We were told at the time that any sort of bulb other than the "old school" ES E27 wouldn't work with the light sensor. Well, we only have about 6 of the 50 bulbs left so we either have got to buy another 50 or, hopefully, there's something on the market now which is more modern (and more expensive and will last longer....) but which will turn itself off in the morning and on in the evening via the light sensor.

Thanks.
Items suitable for your requirement have never gone off the market. The ES and E27 refer to the connection type of the lamp, e.g Bayonet or Edison Screw, The E27 part is the diameter of the screw, e.g. the miniature or standard large size fitting. The size of the fitting carries no relevance what so ever about if it can be operated by an automatic sensor. It is the lamp type, Filament, Halogen, CFL (compact Fluorescent), LED. It is CFL lamps that general are not designed for either Dimming, repeated on/off via PIR, or being in an enclosed lamp fitting. Most filament lamps are being phased out due to their poor energy consumption, (Lumen's per watt), But Halogen GLS lamps would be suitable for your requirement, they have been around for ages. I suspect you have been given some inaccurate advice. Consider http://www.screwfix....ar-es-70w/48006 if you want the equivalent to 100w lamp But there are also plenty of suitable alternatives if the old 60watt would have been sufficient.

Doc H.

 
Some of the movement sensors and daylight sensors have internal solid state switches instead of relays which can make them incompatible with compact fluorescent lamps.

I would suggest you bypass or do away with the daylight sensor entirely and use compact fluorescent lamps that have an integral built-in daylight sensor.

These CFL's with daylight sensing come in varying makes, shapes, wattages and light temperatures. Most of them are easily identifiable as daylight sensing because they have a red dot on them.

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If the existing control is a daylight sensor with a solid state (SCR/TRIAC) switch they can cause LED's to stay permanently on because of the slight leakage that can sometimes be present in the off-state.

I would just buy a sample or a readily available CFL or LED lamp and try it. If it flickers or stays on in the daytime then you can always use it elsewhere and still have the options mentioned above.

 
As the OP says they are external lights like mock mini-street lights which have obviously been installed for a while, it is quite probably that those CLF's with but in sensor will physically not fit inside the enclosure, or if they do because of all the sensor electronics the lamp itself is not lined up adequately with the lens to actually illuminate the area that you want to. Additionally some CLF's are not designed to be installed in an enclosed fitting, which most external lamps are, as lifespan can be reduced. The more common use of the CLF with sensor is as a security measure on an internal light fitting or table lamp where the lamp itself can still breath as its not enclosed.

Doc H.

 
As the OP says they are external lights like mock mini-street lights which have obviously been installed for a while, it is quite probably that those CLF's with but in sensor will physically not fit inside the enclosure, or if they do because of all the sensor electronics the lamp itself is not lined up adequately with the lens to actually illuminate the area that you want to.
Some CFL's definitely wouldn't be ideal, a suitable form factor would need to be found.

Additionally some CLF's are not designed to be installed in an enclosed fitting, which most external lamps are, as lifespan can be reduced. The more common use of the CLF with sensor is as a security measure on an internal light fitting or table lamp where the lamp itself can still breath as its not enclosed.Doc H.
I didn't know that you can't use some CFL's in enclosed fittings. I've mostly used Philips, Osram and Megaman CFL's and none of them as yet have stated that as a limitation in the spec sheets. I've also never seen the CFL's with daylight sensors used indoors, only outdoors. I think they're all rated for outdoor use, the Philips I showed a picture of above definitely is we use them at home for a similar application.

You obviously aren't keen on CFL'S. In general neither am I, I don't like their colour rendering, the halogen is a far better quality light, I think some CFL's are ugly and awkward in form, flicker can also be an issue for reading and screen viewing etc and I'm not keen on the mercury issue. As an external light I stand by them as a fairly good option, they're efficient, cheap, reliable, plenty of size options available plus in this particular case they might be able to make the existing daylight sensor with it's troublesome limitations redundant as well.

 
I've never had any complaints about size before....

Thanks for editing my posting, Doc H.

Many thanks for all your helpful suggestions, guys. You've certainly given me a number of options.

I think in the first instance I'll purchase a Halogen Energy Saver GLS Clear ES 70W as suggested by Doc H and give it a try.

 
I've never had any complaints about size before....

Thanks for editing my posting, Doc H.

Many thanks for all your helpful suggestions, guys. You've certainly given me a number of options.

I think in the first instance I'll purchase a Halogen Energy Saver GLS Clear ES 70W as suggested by Doc H and give it a try.
That would be the quickest and the cheapest option at this stage. But as Marvo suggests with a little tweaking of the circuit removing the existing sensor and fitting CLF's with built in sensors could offer cheaper overall running costs, especially if the lamps are on for most of the night.

Doc H.

 
Just to thank everyone for their kind suggestions and to confirm that my story does indeed have a happy ending in that I purchased a Philips A55 clear 240v E27 ES 70w (>92w) Energy C Class dimmable light bulb which I can confirm switches on and off in the required manner. I shall now buy a second such bulb to replace the other 100w bulb. I note that the new bulb should last 2 years according to the verbage on the box which compares favourable with the 4 or 5 weeks I generally managed to get out of the 100w bulbs.   

 
Could I suggest:

My garden lamp post type fittings were too bright with the 3 heads @ 55W "lantern" ES lamps that TLC sell - so I fitted an in-line dimmer.......

The whole fitting draws less than 50W, and the same lamps have been in for years - they`re only running at about 25% brightness......

 
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