is this make trustable for proving something is dead

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i think i have confused people, hence im about to change my first post, i only need the instrument to prove its dead and not for giving a reading of voltage levels on a screen , so that i can do the safe isolation correctly.

 
ada , both the posted links are to decent pieces of equipment Fluke a very very good make and the Martindale is good from my limited use. Both will do what you require.

 
I know this is is a more expensive unit but I use this tester daily.
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Neat, but.

One of the advantages of using my clamp meter as a volt meter, is the current clamp jaws are a handy thing to hang the meter from something, even when not using them to measure current. Something you can't do with an open jaw current meter.

I'm not trying to say the instruments being discussed are no good, just unnecessary.

Nobody in their right mind would surely consider working as an electrician without a full function multimeter capable of making accurate measurements of voltage, current and resistance. If you have that, you have the means to test for dead.

Buying a separate, dedicated "test for dead" instrument to me is simply a waste of money, something else to buy, maintain, carry on to site and risk breaking or loosing, and at the first hint of doubt, if it gives an ambiguous reading, you would be running to the van for the proper volt meter to make sure.

I prefer to just use one multi function instrument, rather than lots of individual dedicated testers.

 
Nobody in their right mind would surely consider working as an electrician without a full function multimeter capable of making accurate measurements of voltage, current and resistance. If you have that, you have the means to test for dead.
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T140 can do everything you said...

and i do have a proper multimeter, but that normally lives in the van out the way

 
Neat, but.One of the advantages of using my clamp meter as a volt meter, is the current clamp jaws are a handy thing to hang the meter from something, even when not using them to measure current. Something you can't do with an open jaw current meter.

I'm not trying to say the instruments being discussed are no good, just unnecessary.

Nobody in their right mind would surely consider working as an electrician without a full function multimeter capable of making accurate measurements of voltage, current and resistance. If you have that, you have the means to test for dead.

Buying a separate, dedicated "test for dead" instrument to me is simply a waste of money, something else to buy, maintain, carry on to site and risk breaking or loosing, and at the first hint of doubt, if it gives an ambiguous reading, you would be running to the van for the proper volt meter to make sure.

I prefer to just use one multi function instrument, rather than lots of individual dedicated testers.
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no its not, its an essential part of the approved safe isolation procedure enforced in many companys.

 
All test instrument have there pro and cons it very much up to what the person feels comfortable using .

The first multimeter I used was a AVO model 8 but if I remember right the first voltage tester was the Drummond test lamps

 
I agree with what everyone has said above but am completing my training at the moment and was told you are not allowed to use a MFT for safe isolation as it could possible be put on the wrong setting, but agree 100% i would rather see the MFT work out voltage ie. 237V and see when isolated it go to 0V rather than use the Fluke T100 which I was supplied with my course. I dont know why but I havent got 100% confidence in the T100 as if you dont make good contact and it shows led's instead of a lcd readout. Prob just me being stupid.

Ive only got the Fluke so cant comment on the Martindale.

 
IIRC

The HSE guide to EAWR (or similar, all, my books, are still in the office tonight) specifically prohibits the use of a multi function meter which is capable of being used on the incorrect range for proving safe isolation.

Mind it may be ESC guidance etc. but there is a "quasi official" recommendation out there for this.

That is you must NOT use a multi meter for proof of safe isolation under EAWR.

Not to say I don't but don't use my Fluke 87 DMM, but please don't tell anyone! That lives in my tool case as most of my work is fault finding anyway, not installation.

However, to comply with customer requirements I also carry a KEWTech PU & a KEWTech 1710 voltage indicator & volt stick, along with my Fluke 337 clamp meter & 1653 MFT which all live in the 1653 case which stays in the vehicle unless needed.

As an aside,

I have found the KEWTech stuff OK, their leads quite good, seem better than the Fluke leads. I have heard lots of stories about the Robin MFT's (16xx range), mine has been OK. I also have an old Robin DMM & Analogue multi meter and they have been very good. It always used to be in my industrial background, Fluke 7x or 8x series, or 80xx series, (mine an 8060a lives in the W/Shop now,) DMM's & AVO8 for fault finding, testing & set up of kit, Megger for insulation resistance, Martindale for voltage indication & a LEM/HEME for current clamps.

Don't forget also, your LOTO kit! O)

Customers eh! Who'd have them...

Paul

 
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I agree with what everyone has said above but am completing my training at the moment and was told you are not allowed to use a MFT for safe isolation as it could possible be put on the wrong setting, but agree 100% i would rather see the MFT work out voltage ie. 237V and see when isolated it go to 0V rather than use the Fluke T100 which I was supplied with my course. I dont know why but I havent got 100% confidence in the T100 as if you dont make good contact and it shows led's instead of a lcd readout. Prob just me being stupid. Ive only got the Fluke so cant comment on the Martindale.
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Doubtful you'll ever see an accurate DMM go to 0V unless it is connected to the same potential with no real distance between the leads, these days they are so sensitive that they can pick up the EM filed form HF lighting!

Put both probes on a N bar, 0V, put one on the E bar and on elsewhere you'll get a reading, perhaps 230mV or even 230 micro Volts (Could not find the lower case Mu symbol!)

This can easily be misinterpreted as still live, or if used to seeing this, the converse could also be true, hence you would read 230 Mu V when there is actually 230V present, this is why you should NOT use a modern DMM for safe isolation procedures almost all are auto ranging and that can be a dangerous situation.

Try it yourselves, especially in a live EM environment.

Paul

 
Doubtful you'll ever see an accurate DMM go to 0V unless it is connected to the same potential with no real distance between the leads, these days they are so sensitive that they can pick up the EM filed form HF lighting!Put both probes on a N bar, 0V, put one on the E bar and on elsewhere you'll get a reading, perhaps 230mV or even 230 micro Volts (Could not find the lower case Mu symbol!)

This can easily be misinterpreted as still live, or if used to seeing this, the converse could also be true, hence you would read 230 Mu V when there is actually 230V present, this is why you should NOT use a modern DMM for safe isolation procedures almost all are auto ranging and that can be a dangerous situation.

Try it yourselves, especially in a live EM environment.

Paul
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You would NOT see 230 uV reading if it WAS connected to 230V, you might only see that if one probe was not making good contact, and the same would be true of ANY tester.

IF it reads a low voltage, say even 10V due to induced currents and the meters high impedance, you would NOT "misinterpret as still live" (but even if you did, that's erring on the side of caution)

I still much prefer a reading of actual volts rather than an LED indicating a "range" of voltages.

My DMM has manual range override if you don't want it to auto range, but more often i'm using the volts range of my clamp ammeter which is not auto range, just 2 manual ranges to choose from.

Like all instruments, you have to apply a little common sense and knowledge to the readings you get to be sure they are genuine.

 
I can;t see what's wrong with a voltage indicator as long as it is used correctly? I have loads of testers, no need to say 'you can only have this one because it is the only one that is accurate to 1 billionth of a volt'. I can use a tester that will confirm if the voltage is around 200V or higher, I have one that will give me some indication of voltage in bands of 10-20Vish, and I have meters to tell me the exact voltage to within thousandths of a volt. Each one does the job it is required to do.

 
You would NOT see 230 uV reading if it WAS connected to 230V, you might only see that if one probe was not making good contact, and the same would be true of ANY tester.IF it reads a low voltage, say even 10V due to induced currents and the meters high impedance, you would NOT "misinterpret as still live" (but even if you did, that's erring on the side of caution)

I still much prefer a reading of actual volts rather than an LED indicating a "range" of voltages.

My DMM has manual range override if you don't want it to auto range, but more often i'm using the volts range of my clamp ammeter which is not auto range, just 2 manual ranges to choose from.

Like all instruments, you have to apply a little common sense and knowledge to the readings you get to be sure they are genuine.
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Or you could use the tool designed for the job and not ever have the slightest possibility of messing the settings up or not reading the display properly. not like they take up any space or cost that much.

 
dont forget people, one of these doesnt tell you the exact voltage, but is still the recommended way

martindale_vi13700g.jpg


 

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