Kitchen Extractor Safe Zone

[polarity]

Hi All

Another kitchen question...

Installing a wall mounted extractor hood as pic , no units to side or above.

ideally would like to cut into the wall and run its' (pre-attached, flex) cable directly down to below the work surface and right into the next cabinet to a patress socket box - ie as if it was an integrated appliance.

A glass panel will then be mounted as a "splash back" for the hob area and will cover the cable run.

There is no safe zone between extractor and hob created by doing this as there is no visible box. I could put one inside the chimney or under the worktop but it still would not be visible!

Having said that there will be a glass splashback covering the cable - that can not be drilled through (and if you tried the wire would instantly become visible behind the pile of broken glass!)

Does the wall mounted appliance creat its own safe zone?

Is there an issue with using the existing flex to run behind the glass or would I have to join to or replace with T+E.

Can I use the socket or must I use a fused DP switch.

Thanks !

(Yes this will be inspected by LABC)

 

[matt.leung]

should be fine... use capping over ur cables (metal)... and run a deep chase..

does the property have a 30mA RCD?

 

[bulmer]

I'd install it in a 20mm steel conduit and make sure its earthed. There no way i'd cut into a wall by 50mm, unless the plaster is super thick.

 

[matt.leung]

steel conduit is a bit over the top in my eyes for this location and cable route...

u can use metal capping...

 

[bulmer]

What capping going to do?

Capping can't be used as a form of mechanical protection

 

[matt.leung]

lts be realistic about this, would u really bend and use 20mm metal / steel conduit to run this cable in, look at the route and the length of it.

there is nothing wrong using metal capping for mechanical protection...

 

[bulmer]

I would yes as its out of the so called safe zones. Then later on down the line when someone wants a rack to hang all their kitchen utensils on, they ain't going through the cable.

Might be OTT, but I'd be happy to do it.

Still don't think capping is classed as mechanical protection though. Might be wrong.

 

[polarity]

hmm... was hoping for some common sense in the regs - it will be mechanically protected by 6mm of toughened glass! Does that not count?

Yes, RCD protected

Thanks

 

[septiclecky]

hmm... was hoping for some common sense in the regs - it will be mechanically protected by 6mm of toughened glass! Does that not count?Thanks

No as glass is not classified as mechanical protection

 

[ianmacd]

Not unless the glass forms part of the wall rather than the covering. As stated above, metal capping is not mechanical protection. You would need something much thicker than that.

What about something with an earthed sheath?

 

[polarity]

Not unless the glass forms part of the wall rather than the covering.

Well it is bonded and/ or screwed to the wall.

With all of this armour plating required it will be much easier to run the cable all the way to the top of the (fake) chimmney, put a just visible JB in and run it all the way back down again.

 

[polarity]

.... or could I just install an empty box with a blanking plate - would look identical to a JB!

 

[matt.leung]

i often put the ex. fan on the same ioslation switch for the cooker.

This allows you to chase the wall directly above it, then you need to make a small devation towards the ex. fan.

 

[bulmer]

.... or could I just install an empty box with a blanking plate - would look identical to a JB!

Yes you could.

 

[sellers]

whats wrong with putting the spur next to it high up? If you don;t want to create mess put it suface tight upto the chimeny and ceiling it will look fine, and get your feed from the upstairs ring, but note it on the CU. Not ideal but an option.

 

[polarity]

whats wrong with putting the spur next to it high up? If you don;t want to create mess put it suface tight upto the chimeny and ceiling it will look fine, and get your feed from the upstairs ring, but note it on the CU. Not ideal but an option.

Thanks for that but it's a bungalow...! :|

Isolation switch going elsewhere, the idea is not to have anything electrical visible, so pop up sockets, under cabinet sockets and cooker isolation switch. All the details here: http://www.talk.electricianforum.co.uk/showthread.php?t=8878

Seems the easiest option is the box to ID the safe zone, esp as it is physically impossible to drill though toughened glass without shattering it, It really is only needed for reg compliance rather than safety.

Thanks!

 

[ProDave]

Am I missing something here.

One of the phrases in the 17th says something like any cable NOT in a safe zone must be protected by a 30mA RCD (regardless of depth etc)

So although not what it was perhaps intended to say, it does in effect say you can run a cable anywhere outside a safe zone, providing it has 30mA RCD protection.

So if this cable is RCD protected, just fit it as you intend.

 

[Badger]

excuss my stupidity here but im obvously missing something here :| am i right in thinking its a bungalow with a roof space and also a chimney will be going to ceiling, if i am correct then surely why not drop the main feed inside the chimney part and stick spur in that or better above ceiling in loft space.

 

[polarity]

Am I missing something here.One of the phrases in the 17th says something like any cable NOT in a safe zone must be protected by a 30mA RCD (regardless of depth etc)

So although not what it was perhaps intended to say, it does in effect say you can run a cable anywhere outside a safe zone, providing it has 30mA RCD protection.

So if this cable is RCD protected, just fit it as you intend.

Yes I remember reading that on here, but not sure about it. - If that is correct then problem solved!

 

[polarity]

excuss my stupidity here but im obvously missing something here :| am i right in thinking its a bungalow with a roof space and also a chimney will be going to ceiling, if i am correct then surely why not drop the main feed inside the chimney part and stick spur in that or better above ceiling in loft space.

Chimney does not go all the way to the ceiling - vents out the wall. Bungalow has shallow pitch flat roof so no real access from above, but good idea!