Makita Li-Ion Batteries

Talk Electrician Forum

Help Support Talk Electrician Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I never really noticed before but the no name 3.0Ah BL1830 copy I have feels a tad LIGHTER in weight than the genuine article so I thought I'd take it apart. Inside there's x10 cardboard covered cells each stamped 1500mAh, 3.6V and it looks well made tbh. Has Pozi screws for a start rather than T10 tamper proofs to take it apart! So obviously cells in parallel to give the 18V at 3.0Ah.

It charges / works as it should but I wonder at the weight difference? Maybe the cells are hollow inside!  :lol:

 
I have some Panasonic D batteries in my mag lite and it is no use as a weapon!

Its too light :innocent

I can only assume that there is less lead in the Panasonics as opposed to duracells?

same would apply to NiCad, less nickel???

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I have a generic 4ah battery for my Makita and other than now being completely wrapped in insulation tape to hold it together (it is very brittle, you only have to tap it and it breaks) it works fine, on occasions it flashes up a fault but if you put the battery in prior to turning on the charger it is usually fine.

 
I gutted the original Makita Li-ion battery pack and found that AA's in 3 layers 6/5/4 will fit in the empty case. So I thought, 15 x 1.2 = 18V. I ordered 16 3000mAh NiMH AA's from Hong Kong for £4.36 all in and was eagerly awaiting them.

Just been round my son's school mate's house and his Dad runs Vapextech who supply all sorts of batteries. He reckons AA's like I'm proposing won't cope with the "draw" required by power tools whereas Sub-C batteries will.

Also, for all those with dead, old pre Li-Ion NiMH packs from DeWalts etc. He had stopped doing single, tagged Sub-C's a while but has a new customer who wants them on a regular basis so will be offering them on the website soon for re-pack jobs etc.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
I will accept the advice is a bit late but thought I may as well post it to show someone else's experience of fixing drill batteries.

Pretty sure Onoff will have no issues sorting out this problem!

:yawn

As for photonicinduction, I have to agree he's a bit of a cowboy and I really don't like posting his videos 
default_tongue%20in%20cheek.png


https://www.youtube.com/embed/Ka-LEcZaYqQ?feature=oembed
 
Last edited by a moderator:
As for photonicinduction, I have to agree he's a bit of a cowboy and I really don't like posting his videos 
tongue%20in%20cheek.png
I like that way the videos sometimes start off with a seemingly sensible task/message and then inevitably end up with something being on fire. Love to see someone trying to follow his instructions. "OK, battery working, off to the Esso for some petrol then I suppose".

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Well, my 15 Sub-Cs just arrived from Hong Kong. Ordered on the 15th Feb so not too bad. That'll be another DeWalt 18V battery re-packed shortly!

 
Last edited by a moderator:
Evening, someone will know the answers I'm sure:

1) Are there "new" and "old" style Makita BL1830 Li-Ion batteries?

My charger is a DC18RA which happily charges the BL1830

2) Will this charger charge the 4.0 & 5.0 Makita batteries?

3) Or is there a newer charger that does 3/4 & 5 Ah.

Something to do with clips on the battery (you can break off  :innocent ) ?

Cheers

EDIT: Talking about the genuine Makita stuff here NOT "clone" batteries.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
General consensus seems to be yes. Some of the battery listings at some places mention being able to use the DC18RA, this news article from Makita says yes, and the pages for the BL1840 and 1850 say you can use your existing chargers.

 
Top