Otherwise they are not bonded once the screws are removed.
But you shouldn't be removing them without isolating them first so there shouldn't be an issue there. I know everyone does so I totally understand where you're coming from.
Otherwise they are not bonded once the screws are removed.
I know mate but it's more for the DIYers and clueless have a go at fixing it people.But you shouldn't be removing them without isolating them first so there shouldn't be an issue there. I know everyone does so I totally understand where you're coming from.
If you think about it what's the point of bonding it if its buried in a wall and not having it bonded when exposed and with live conductors waving about?
Well if you start applying to logic to the regs you soon come unstuck! There's lots of regs I subtly ignore in one way or another, as I'm sure others do for various reasons. I can pretty much guarantee that we will all do things slightly differently. One thing I don't do though is things 'just in case someone clueless comes poking about in it'.
Years ago you didn't group mcb's as you do today, whereas now you start at the right and run say 45A,32A,32A 32A, 20A,16A,10A,6A,6A, years ago you'd run say 45A, 6A, 32A, 6A, and so on, the idea being that by not placing 2 high load breakers side by side you shouldn't get any appreciable heat build up.I read the Control Gear instructions today....
View attachment 7948
this was far more disturbing though....define continuous!
View attachment 7949
Years ago you didn't group mcb's as you do today, whereas now you start at the right and run say 45A,32A,32A 32A, 20A,16A,10A,6A,6A, years ago you'd run say 45A, 6A, 32A, 6A, and so on, the idea being that by not placing 2 high load breakers side by side you shouldn't get any appreciable heat build up.
The front covers usually have a drop-down flap which would be held up by the householder when re-energizing a tripped mcb/rcd. The extra bonding, I assume, is provided by the OEM to try and mitigate the effects of holding on to a bit of metal connected to the earth when doing so. Hopefully, electricians would use a magnet, insulating tape or vde screwdriver to hold up the flap, householders won't though.Whilst fitting a board yesterday I was considering the need for the earth strap included for the front cover. Given that we earth metal back boxes via the cover screws, and I don't think I've ever seen earth straps on 3 phase boards, and that the metal front is secured by metal screws to the metal back back panel (which cuts through any paint), then the question is 'are these straps actually needed?'.
I was thinking more of the Earthing conductors carrying a fault current for the period of time it takes for the re-energised mcb/rcd to re-trip, and the householder completing part of the earth fault path.if it has shorted to the casing, there is a serious fault.....
You'd think!!!!!if it has shorted to the casing, there is a serious fault.....
What is your concern here? Have you ever been in a house with a broken PEN? It's spooky. Yes the case of the metal CU must have risen to near phase potential, so why didn't I get a shock from it? Why hadn't the customer complained that anything he touched gave him a shock? because the whole house was floating at phase potential, that's why. The only complaint was "no power"TNCS with broken PEN?
Someone will die from this sooner or later, who will be in the dock? LFB? IET? Me?
so how have we survived working with 3 phase boards for years?
or "old" metal domestic CU's? (or even fuse boards)so how have we survived working with 3 phase boards for years?
Enter your email address to join: