moving sockets

[matt.leung]

hi,

a client of mine has asked me to move some sockets higher up on the wall.

how would you normally extend the cable in the wall...

at the mo they are surface mounted very low down, and wants them chased in higher up...

many thanks..

 

[a1]

Personally,

I would use "through/butt heatshrink crimps with glue" inside of them for extra strength.

Blue for 2.5mm Conductor and Red for 1-1.5mm Conductor. I also add an extra layer of Heat Shrink over as much of the conductor as I can.

Normal Through / butt crimps and heatshrink will do too.

These are perminant joins, and as such, can be burried in the wall without the need to be left accessible for inspection.

 

[ianmacd]

These are perminant joins, and as such, can be burried in the wall without the need to be left accessible for inspection.

....but still need to be in a safe zone.

 

[Apache]

I have moving sockets - really hard to plug things into

You could always splash out and use some push fits (also permanent).

Ian - if he's just moving them up the wall then they should remain in a safe zone - no?

 

[ianmacd]

I have moving sockets - really hard to plug things into You could always splash out and use some push fits (also permanent).

Ian - if he's just moving them up the wall then they should remain in a safe zone - no?

As long as up the wall doesnt include a foot to the left too.

 

[Evans Electric]

I must admit I have never through crimped and plastered in .

If the cables drop from the ceiling then you're away with the mixer .

Otherwise I see three options.

1. Lift the floorboards, pull cables down,J/B and new cable up the wall.

2. As I know of some sparks who won't use a J/B , rewire both legs . (Not me)

3. Leave original box , use connectors and fit blank plate .

 

[fletchflash]

i would lift the boards and extend cables under floor with through crimps. As said before, its a permanent joint and by doing it that way you can move the socket anywhere without worrying about zones.

 

[lilman]

I always use through crimps (glue filled or standard) ; like Admin I then use long lengths of heatshrink over the top of each conductor, and a final piece of heatshrink over the whole cable. Always plaster them in and never had any problems. Just make sure your crimping is good.

 

[M107]

I always use through crimps (glue filled or standard) ; like Admin I then use long lengths of heatshrink over the top of each conductor, and a final piece of heatshrink over the whole cable. Always plaster them in and never had any problems. Just make sure your crimping is good.

Same as.

But if the socket is to be moved left/right I tend to pull up or down & use jb's or the ashley push connector jb's..

If you do use the ashley jb make sure the conductors are in tight I've had a couple with no continuity on the circuit when tested....a little extra force is required to ensure tight fit PITA when boards are all back down.

 

[Andy™]

crimp & heatshrink under plaster is an option.

better job would be to take floor board up and join under there and new cables to socket. in some cases, it may be easier to replace a cable bettwen 2 sockets than to extend it at either end

 

[M107]

Does anybody else write on the floor boards " ring main junction below"?

I'm so sad I even write on the jb's what circuit :Blushing

 

[sparkytim]

+1

Sad I know but handy if you go back 10 years later!

ROTFWL

 

[Evans Electric]

Can't say I do that , but always mark any pipes/cables liable to be nailed with a felt tip on the boards.

 

[loonytoon]

Yes, I do both. I mark where Jb's are and where pipes, cables etc. I also put what Jb is for e.g. 'JB for Down Lts Below'