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Mate....

The connections could be any thing.... A time click and boiler diagram would be good

Much more info needed

 
It's most probably the override which is a permanent live fed from 2nd switch which switches the fitting on regardless of pir :)

 
I was on a domestic site and basically a spur and timeclock was next to a boiler.A feed came down to the spur with a flex going to the boiler l,n,e.A l,n and earth link went into timeclock from spur.The timeclock and thermostat had a 3 core 1.5 installed between them.From the time clock it was a 4 core flex.I just need to know the four core flex connections at the time clock and at the other end of the flex at the boiler?I presume brown feed, black sw stat and grey neutral any ideas? Plus the 3 core flex at the boiler I presume l,n,e like normal
Make model numbers, or photos etc, our members are very good. But I don't know of any that are mind readers?

Doc H.

 
The manufactures instructions will state the function of each terminal and how to wire the device up.

Doc H.

 
From a spur you wouldn't have a 5 or 6 core cable a spur is only to provide a L and N feed e.g to power an appliance...

The other cores could be switch lives for ......

Thermostats

Valves

Temp controls

Things like that .... Some heating systems get get very complicated.

 
if you look closer, youll see that this is a switched live connection between the PIR and the lamp....

you can also do other stuff with this connection, but its probably too dangerous to tell you.

 
From a spur you wouldn't have a 5 or 6 core cable a spur is only to provide a L and N feed e.g to power an appliance...The other cores could be switch lives for ......

Thermostats

Valves

Temp controls

Things like that .... Some heating systems get get very complicated.
Fair enough its just about the 4 core coming off the time clock realy depending on what you need at the boiler really.I know every boiler needs l,n,e to it 3 core flex.Just wondering why we was puting 4 core flex off the time clock to the boiler?.At the most you need 3 core for stat wire and earth unless the boiler needed extra cores for feed and neutral shouldnt do though because it was getting this off the 3 core flex

 
Calling these things TIMECLOCKS irritates me a little. They are not a type of clock that shows the time are they, they are a type of "switch " operated by the time. ie TIMESWITCH

 
Calling these things TIMECLOCKS irritates me a little. They are not a type of clock that shows the time are they, they are a type of "switch " operated by the time. ie TIMESWITCH
At last, you accept the importance of correct terminology. The clique will be pleased! :)

 
PROGRAMMER is usually used to describe a device that has 1 or 2 outputs, and provides a switched live output(s)

TIMESWITCH is usually used to describe a single channel device that has one, VOLT FREE contact as it's output that can be used to switch a low voltage. Often used for heating control on a combi boiler. (it can also be configured to provide a switched live if that's what you need)

4 core cable may be carrying earth, neutral, switched live for heating and switched live for hot water. Or perhaps a permanent live and a switched live. But without more information none of us can guess what it's supplying.

One has to ask the OP what exactly are you wanting to know, and what exactly are you wanting to do. I assume you want (or need) to change something. Otherwise, if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

 
Its a long while since I have done pyro I have got a pyro stripper.I am going to need a pot tightener and a pot clamp to seal the pot is this all Ill need in tools as far as bending the pyro cant I just use my hands or will I need some kind of tool for this?.Pyro is not used often now I just need to know if it crops up?

 
You bend it by hand R.B .

You can actually make pyro off without the dedicated tools, not the best idea but its been done when they were'nt available.

Realistically you just need a ringing tool and a crimper, wind the sheath off with a long screwdriver. I found most stripping tools to be carp and have always used a stripping bar. ( Round steel rod about a foot long with a ring formed for the handle., fits every size of pyro)

If you're stuck without the tools :-

Ring it with Stanley knife.

Strip it with long screwdriver.

Screw pot on with grips.

Squeeze the seal in with two pair of pliers.

Crimp it with sidecutters , grips or screwdriver.

Not much fun but possible!!!

 
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