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I've got my set of Pyro tools you can borrow, if you are up in Central Scotland.

As Evan said regarding the stripping of Pyro, I use a similar homemade tool of a bit of 1/4" rod bent at right angles at one end as a handle and a small slot cut into the other end for the bit of Pyro you started with the snips to slot into. I only found my rotary stripper to be successful on new, good condition Pyro. The homemade tool we called, stripping pokers, must have made loads of them over the years.

For a flat bend with 2L1.5 Pyro bending it round a spare ceiling rose gave the perfect bend radius and done in the blink of an eye.

For some strange reason I always liked Pyro.

 
R.B Like Roys and myself , make yourself a stripping poker , as I said , I gave up messing about with the rotary things , Stripping Poker , one size fits all.

You could use a plumber's copper pipe ringer I would guess ,so lets see if anyone has a crimper ( I only have the two, one of each size)

 
you can use pyro to strip pyro

pliers for screwing the pot on

you do need a crimper though

 
I use a similar homemade tool of a bit of 1/4" rod bent at right angles at one end as a handle and a small slot cut into the other end for the bit of Pyro you started with the snips to slot into
Any chance of a picture?

 
here you go. make it out of anything similar diameter to rebar

slot the end

i use powered pyro stripper

pyro.jpg


 
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I had to do a joint recently with no tools on me, I did the terminations just as Evans Electric described above. The putty can be forced in with just your fingers the pot will squeeze it up tight when its screwed in. Remember to test continuity before you crimp it.

 
The potting tool does it only come in 20mil size?Is this the only one ill need?I presume I will only use 2.5 or 1.5 mm cores.I know the pyro cables are bigger sizes I mean is there 25 mil potting tools etc?

 
Yes there are 25 mm potting tools and of course, 20mm but you don't really need one at all TBH Just screw the pots on with your grips.

As I said, all you need is a stripping poker ,(Can't buy them, have to make one) a ringer and a 20mm crimper .

Worry about 25mm as and when . Probably never need them.

 
If I wired data points up to an existing cab and placed in a new panel how do I get the thing working put jumper cables in these from the power data panels?existing?

 
I am finding the connections hard on burglar alarms I know how to wire them, could someone point me in the right direction?.I connected a sensor up the other day positive red negative black.Green and white tamper blue and yellow alarm.Alarms consist of sensors, bell box, key pad,door contacts and alarm panel are these easy enough to do as connections?And should I know the connections inside the alarm panel?.How many cores are needed to each of the sensors ,bell box, key pad and door contacts?thanks Ryan

 
Like Slipshod says your best to wire in 6-core cable just to be on the safe side, then at least you have spare cores should u require them (damaged etc) u can also use 8 core cable and connect 2 sensors to one cable but perhaps this may just confuse u. Generally standard domestic alarms as follows sensors 6core, keypad 4core, contacts 2core, bell box 6core

 
Out of interest, the colour code you quoted was the one Scantronics used to print. Different installers use different colour codes. Many years ago i used to do installs for a NACOSS approved company & the rules were you had to change colour codes on the same system if more than 10( i think) zones were used.

 
3 phase pfc readings I know you take the highest reading and double it.For instance you might get a reading of 15ka, you might have bs 88 fuses protecting and these are rated at 80 ka so this would be ok wouldnt it?This how it works if ever a big fault occured yoy dont want the board blowing off the wall.Household breakers are 6ka so you are looking for a pfc reading under 6ka am i getting this right?

 
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