Old Garage Roller Door drives down on up or down command

[roys]

Neighbour asked me round to look at his roller door on his garage last weekend, whenever he pressed UP or down on his remote the door would drive down, and I suspect as it was driving down on the up command it wasn’t cutting out on the bottom limit, I had to knock the power off as it was starting to unwind on the roller.
I couldn’t see any manufacturer details on roller door or control box, so I took the pcb out and found the manufacturer name on the back of that. Looked them up on internet and they are still about. I got them to phone them up last Monday and describe the fault they suspected faulty pcb, so he bought a new control box of them which wasn’t bad at £50.
I fitted the box for him this afternoon and exactly the same fault still exists, what possible fault in the internal roller motor would make it drive down on both and up and down command.
To get to the motor which is one of the internal ones is going to be a ball ache as it is a double width roller so is going to be heavy to lift of bracket.
Any thoughts chaps?

 

[Andy™]

forget the control panel, earth & neutral to the flex, stick a live on one of the other 2, should move in 1 direction. then go to the other one, should go opposite direction. if it doesnt, new motor. by the time you take them out, its not worth trying to fix, just replaced it

 

[roys]

forget the control panel, earth & neutral to the flex, stick a live on one of the other 2, should move in 1 direction. then go to the other one, should go opposite direction. if it doesnt, new motor. by the time you take them out, its not worth trying to fix, just replaced it

Are the internal motors fairly standard? any I have worked on in my life have been motors that sit externally to the roller and drive via a gearbox big industrial roller doors.

 

[Andy™]

pretty much. all are 4 core same as that. capacity varies a lot, although that look like a 100-150nm motor on a star bracket with a 4" barrel, cant say its its 1.5mm or 3mm wall though

direct drive are far easier to work on & replace

 

[roys]

Cheers Andy, good info, do you mean by 1.5 or 3mm wall the roller barrel wall?

 

[Andy™]

yep, youll need either 94 or 97mm collars

 

[roys]

Just to conclude the thread.
Removed the motor a couple of weeks ago (had to drill out half a dozen pop rivets) to get the the nameplate details and dimensions, 120NM, 97mm collar, looked on internet found generic motors meeting that spec ordered one from Amazon, about £120, arrived through the week. Went back round to his house today and fitted the new one, set up the limits using a Safebloc straight onto the motor tails then connected into the control box. Works a treat.
Thanks for your help Andy.

 

[SPECIAL LOCATION]

so nice to read a thread with someone who knows what to ask...

and someone else who knows what to answer!!

 

[kerching]

The knowledge on here always amazes me, just saying

 

[Sidewinder]

For all my experience, if I wanted advice on a roller door of this type, it would be @Andy™ I would be asking!
He has forgotten more about these doors than I have ever known!

 

[Andy™]

Just to conclude the thread.
Removed the motor a couple of weeks ago (had to drill out half a dozen pop rivets) to get the the nameplate details and dimensions

i hope you fitted more than just rivets back in it. they can shear and cause the shutter to come crashing down (there should be a brake on other end but often not). usually a few rivets to hold everything in place then some M6 bolts drilled & tapped through the barrel into the collar works well

 

[roys]

i hope you fitted more than just rivets back in it. they can shear and cause the shutter to come crashing down (there should be a brake on other end but often not). usually a few rivets to hold everything in place then some M6 bolts drilled & tapped through the barrel into the collar works well

When I removed it, it was only held with 1/2 a dozen rivets, I was under the impression that these were only to lock it all together as the driving shear force was acting on the square cut out on the end of the roller and the plastic dog on the motor collar? if I have that wrong it is no biggie to go round and tap a couple of 6mm machine screws through the roller tube and into the collar.
No brake in non drive end.
Cheers Andy

 

[Andy™]

collar on the end of the barrel against headplate is for the limits and has no drive, it just turns with the barrel. if its notched into the barrel it doesnt need anything although a rivet is also good. dont put them on a 230nm or above motor though, itll go straight into the limit mechanism and jam it. the drive collar in the middle of the barrel should really have some bolts in it. seen many that have failed by rivets shearing and comes down uncontrolled. more luck that no one has been injured by any that ive been to

 

[roys]

Ok doaky I will put a couple of 6mm machine screws into it.
Thank you for the advice.