Plastering Over Wagos Or Crimps Or Ashly Or Line

SLIPSHOD & SLAPDASH · Jan 21, 2014

Remember though you should not leave the newly jointed cable in a non safe route .

HammerMan · Jan 21, 2014

Onoff said:
Just a thought to the OP.............you need to extend the cable (I assume you're losing the original socket?). First obviously keep the chase horizontal/vertical in line with the original socket. Why not go that bit deeper on your chase and lay in a length of PVC conduit? Any issues with your crimped joint and you can whip it out.

Hi firstly great pics and explanation it was just what I had in mind aswell! I need to move some sockets, only few inches but they need moving all the same.

I also need to move the switched spur sockets / faceplates to a new location, not far about a few meters for each

NozSpark · Jan 21, 2014

Also don't forget that the existing cable as well as the extended part needs to be in the safe zone,,, directly in line with a socket or switch (horizontally or vertically) and within 150mm of an internal corner or where a wall meets the ceiling

HammerMan · Jan 21, 2014

NozSpark said:
Also don't forget that the existing cable as well as the extended part needs to be in the safe zone,,, directly in line with a socket or switch (horizontally or vertically) and within 150mm of an internal corner or where a wall meets the ceiling

Tthanks for the advice, am I right in that should be 150mm from any sink/taps and hob/oven or should it be 300mm?

OnOff · Jan 22, 2014

HammerMan said:
Tthanks for the advice, am I right in that should be 150mm from any sink/taps and hob/oven or should it be 300mm?

According to the various guides to the building regs it's 300mm from edge of sink/hob to edge of socket. Think the NICEIC reckon ideally 1m. Not of course always practical!

You would do well to buy yourself one of the Building Reg guides from the IET or NICEIC bookshop. It has pretty pictures of a kitchen layout and socket & switch safe zones etc.........OH, here you go:

5th picture titled "Zones in Room 1" -

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=sockets+distance+to+sink&espv=210&es_sm=93&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=e2XfUoqxOMqthQeywoDYBg&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAQ&biw=1280&bih=915#q=socket+safe+zones&tbm=isch&imgdii=_

Look for the one with the beech worktops (think this is ripped from the IET guide):

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=sockets+distance+to+sink&espv=210&es_sm=93&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=e2XfUoqxOMqthQeywoDYBg&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAQ&biw=1280&bih=915#q=socket+to+sink+distance&tbm=isch&imgdii=_

:lol:

EDIT: Actually, that first link, another rip off from the NICEIC I think, DOESN'T indicate fitting heights. Draw two horizontal lines, one 450mm off the floor another 1200mm off the floor. Keep bottom of socket above the lower line, top of switch below higher line. Sockets above worktops, min 100mm from top of worktop to bottom of socket.