ref cu change

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paul b b

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hello chaps,

few questions on a cu change i have to do.

there is no main water or gas bond, water is easy, gas however is lpg on othere side of the house, the stopknob is outside, is it on to bond next to it outside?

the cooker is a range cooker, i cant take it out so how do i take a zs?

no doubt there will be more to follow!

thanks

paul

 
for cooker I would do as suggested by Andy, but put my actual earth probe on the cooker somewhere,

just to prove the earth does actually reach it and not stop at the switch,

I know your missing out a whole metre of line,

but lets fly into the wind sometimes.

 
for cooker I would do as suggested by Andy, but put my actual earth probe on the cooker somewhere,just to prove the earth does actually reach it and not stop at the switch,

I know your missing out a whole metre of line,

but lets fly into the wind sometimes.
:^O

+1

 
i thought about testing the switch but was worried about the meter of cable that is not tested, you just know the onething you dont test will be wrong, but will do as steps says,

the gas enters the building in the loft, can i bond there or does it need to be able to be seen?

 
for cooker I would do as suggested by Andy, but put my actual earth probe on the cooker somewhere,just to prove the earth does actually reach it and not stop at the switch,

I know your missing out a whole metre of line,

but lets fly into the wind sometimes.
good idea. and yes, your missing a bit of the live from your test. but at least you would notice if it was open circuit by the cooker not working

 
Testing at the switch, together with a continuity test of the cpc to the case of the range { as previously recommended }, is perfectly acceptable for a C.U change E.I.C....Mention in Comments if you wish.

 
also just to add would it be ok just to do r2 and use the cooker as the other end?

 
also just to add would it be ok just to do r2 and use the cooker as the other end?
Tom .Testing at the swtch will additionally enable you to prove polarity [ up to that point]

 
Bond the gas in the loft where it enters the property. Note this position on your EIC (you could use your label maker to put a small label on the CU, even).

I've come across several situations where the cooker cannot be removed, due to being fixed in place and the control has been tiled round and can't be opened up without causing damage. In these instances I do an R2 test from MET to the cooker casing and also the control screws. Depending upon your R2 test point on the cooker, the reading can be a little high due to corrosion or enamelled surfaces, so I put the figure for the screw in the R2 box on the results and note the figure for the casing in the comments box for that line. Note these conditions in the main comments box.

Also, do the IR with the cooker switch on and off - that way you get a figure for the circuit and the appliance. It'll also indicate whether the appliance is likely to trip the RCD. Again note both results.

 
i thought about testing the switch but was worried about the meter of cable that is not tested, you just know the onething you dont test will be wrong, but will do as steps says,
As steps says if you put the Earth probe on the cooker then you will actually be testing that piece of cable (just not for L&N but if they were missing it wouldn't work ;) .

 
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