Ring main return cable route

[Kevin-5]

Hi all

I'm rewiring a kitchen and the only way to get the Ring return leg 2 is through the same chasing it came in as there's no direct route to the other boxes sockets.
Is it ok to pass the return leg through the back boxes or do I have to chisel out more under the back boxes to pass the return leg?

Please, see attached picture. On the left side box is the wire which will come back to each backbox/socket for the wiring to take place in loop in loop out mode.

Thank you

 

[kerching]

I find your terminology a little concerning. Sorry. Are you an electrician and do you know what R2 actually is?

Also, how deep are those back boxes?

Just saying

 

[Bruspark]

I'd ask your electrician . .

 

[Kevin-5]

Hi kerching, thank you for your reply. The R2 was a typing error, was meant to be Leg 2 not Leg R2.
Yes, you're correct it would be confusing if someone said R2 but I'm not tlking about testing and inspection.
My question is regarding regs 18th edition, is the return or completing loop for the ring allowed to go through the box or do I have to chase under it?
The back boxes are 25mm, that's ok space wise.
The reason I'm doing this because there's no direct route between all sockets to complete the ring.
I personally would say it should be no issues as it's the same circuit but I might be wrong regs are regs.

Thank you

 

[steptoe]

There is NO return leg
It's a ring, each side is equal (in theory)
Are you a DIYer , or a 5WW ,? An honest answer makes it easier for us to understand your knowledge and give more appropriate answers to your very (VERY) basic questions

Only a fool (or a DIYer or 5ww) would use a 25mm deep back box if they were running a through cable,

 

[Fleeting]

He passed his AM2 in 2017.

 

[steptoe]

He passed his AM2 in 2017.

And that means,?

 

[Kevin-5]

I'm not here to brag about my skills or put anyone down but thank you for all your replies. I've not done any house bashing that's all, almost all my work has been in singles.
And the 25mm box is on a supporting wall, the bigger the hole on the wall the more you damage the wall structure so I wouldn't go for anything deeper than that and besides the fact the space is sufficient to install a socket with running wire in it.

 

[Fleeting]

There is nothing to say you cannot route the cable through the back box, it isn't ideal but seen it many times the only snag is if the back box needs replacing in the future, probably not your problem. The cable however must not affect the terminations to the socket outlet in normal use nor place undue stress upon the accessory.

 

[Kevin-5]

Thank you.

 

[Fleeting]

Look at the profile to the back of the socket outlet you are using and form the through cable in a manner where it won't interfere with the fitting, at present they are tight across the box and once plastered in they are set in place. Do a trial run before it is too late to find an alternative method by shoving in a couple of cables and fitting the socket front plate. I see they are not fitted flush to the existing finished surface so with the new finish you will have a modicum of leeway.

 

[Kevin-5]

Good pointers. Will do that and well spotted there's 5mm gap between the wall surface and box edge.

 

[SPECIAL LOCATION]

Another point for consideration is....
Are any of these socket positions likely to be wanting a socket with integral USB charge outlets?

As some makes of USB socket need a deeper back-box anyway...
so if you have to route and extra cable through the box...

Then some extra depth is a valuable resource!!!

 

[SPECIAL LOCATION]

Only a fool (or a DIYer or 5ww) would use a 25mm deep back box if they were running a through cable,

You missed of a builder or kitchen fitter!!

Or perhaps they both come within your initial description of... "Fool" ?

 

[Fleeting]

You say most of your work has been done in singles so have you considered tubing between the sockets although some of the chases will need opening.

 

[tinman1973]

Ditch the 2.5mm2 and go for a 4mm or 6mm depending on the method of installation and use a radial on a 32A for a kitchen.

 

[Kevin-5]

It's an overkill of a job tubing. Standard is twin and earth in house installations

 

[Kevin-5]

Ditch the 2.5mm2 and go for a 4mm or 6mm depending on the method of installation and use a radial on a 32A for a kitchen.

That I did consider but read quite a bit of stuff as ring is the most accepted method. I myself would have preferred the radial

 

[Kevin-5]

Another point for consideration is....
Are any of these socket positions likely to be wanting a socket with integral USB charge outlets?

As some makes of USB socket need a deeper back-box anyway...
so if you have to route and extra cable through the box...

Then some extra depth is a valuable resource!!!

I have two points which will be on a drylining wall in the same room, could use those for USB sockets. And everywhere else where it possible will use 35mm deep boxes.

 

[tinman1973]

That I did consider but read quite a bit of stuff as ring is the most accepted method. I myself would have preferred the radial

A lot of sparks are actually moving away from rings, as they are ok when first installed. But when Mr DIY gets their hands on them and start putting in spurs from spurs and causing rings within rings it creates problems. Also, if you get a break in a cable the sockets still work but it's now 2 2.5mm radials on a 32A, which isn't a good idea