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Integrated dishwashers have plenty of room behind them for a socket and plug if the kitchen is designed right and you are not using Ikea carcasses.

You could just cut the plug off and use a cord outlet with the aforementioned switch fused isolator at worktop level.

 
I still fit `em in the unit alongside. When the customer is paying the money, and says "I want it to be like `this` or `that`", I always attempt to provide what they ask. ;)

I`m with Dan here. You can`t get a plug into a socket behind an integ. appliance - there simply isn`t room, unless you`ve oversized worktops (660mm)!:OPray

Even if you could, access to the fuse is nigh on impossible. ; \

Cutting the plug off is not acceptable - which also means that a hole must be made in the carcass, capable of passing a moulded plug. :eek:

If some common sense is used, and the s/o`s are placed in a conspicuous position within the cupboard, harm is not likely.Applaud SmileyApplaud SmileyApplaud Smiley

FYI, I had this discussion with my NIC area engineer, last year. :x :x:x(this is called "covering your ass", in case he`s a member of our community!!!)

 
Moulded plugs were to stop idiots wiring them wrongly. Are you seriously saying a fault in the appliance will be voided by the fact you have adapted the plug top?!?

Christ! If that's true than the world has gone mad!

 
Integrated dishwashers have plenty of room behind them for a socket and plug if the kitchen is designed right and you are not using Ikea carcasses.You could just cut the plug off and use a cord outlet with the aforementioned switch fused isolator at worktop level.
Sorry Mr. S, but I must disagree.

We fitted "Leekes" kitchens for a few years. Very high quality stuff m8. Not one of the integrated appliances could take a plug & socket.Blushing

"cut the plug off"......? Warranty is null & void. Seriously. Neff refused to repair an integ. W/mc under warranty, because the moulded plug had been removedX(. I was amazed too. Luckily, I was not out of pocket, as my boss at the time had instructed me to fit to a SFU. He had to buy a replacement W/mc!

 
No. You would put the un-switched single socket, on a separate radial if you really want to do it properly, behind the dishwasher (but above the water feed point) as there will not be a back to the carcass. On the worktop level you would place a switched fused isolator.
I agree with this as the cuboard next to the unit will have a back which you would need to rip a hole in and most backs are set forward from the wall 90mm plus so your socket with dp swicthing that is fixed to the wall is hardly readily accessible as required by Part P and thats after you empty all the c**p out of the cuboard assuming you remeber if its the cuboard on the right or was it the left.

Put them up top and sod the designers.

 
Well I'll be!

However surely an 'integrated' appliance is not expected to be moved? After all, you wire cookers straight in?

 
I agree with the thought mate, as for "fixed appliance".However, if the makers are going to play funny buggers, then we`ve got to play ball:( :(

Ian - Funnily enough, the preferred position, IF they`re going in the cupboard, is as near to the FRONT as practicable, and as out of harms way as possible. I`ve been known to fix em` to the underside of the worktop! (with a warning at the DB) to keep `em out of the way. ;)

 
Thats a good point about the cutting the plug and the warranty, I always used to fit a sw spur above the w/top controlling a single unswitched socket below but I think now that just a socket in the next unit is the way to go. Can't be that hard to find and plug is intact.

Deke

 
This is obviously down to manufacturers instructions.

The Miele dishwasher I have specifies a 'stopcock' to be fitted behind it (not a 'quarter-turn valve') so there was plenty of room for a plug and socket as well.

After all you are not supposed to fit washing machines or tumble driers into bathroom cupboards unless they are 'designed' for that role.

How many of them have you ever seen? (and yes, I do know that you should cut off the plug and use a switch fused cord outlet to comply)

 
water isolation behind integrated appliances is another no no. What happens if you get a full bore leak ? Water gushing everywhere whilst you try to remove the appliance . . . But that discussion is for another forum

 
This is obviously down to manufacturers instructions.The Miele dishwasher I have specifies a 'stopcock' to be fitted behind it (not a 'quarter-turn valve') so there was plenty of room for a plug and socket as well.

After all you are not supposed to fit washing machines or tumble driers into bathroom cupboards unless they are 'designed' for that role.

How many of them have you ever seen? (and yes, I do know that you should cut off the plug and use a switch fused cord outlet to comply)
How did you get stopcock passed the cencors?

 
water isolation behind integrated appliances is another no no. What happens if you get a full bore leak ? Water gushing everywhere whilst you try to remove the appliance . . . But that discussion is for another forum
Miele's automaticaly shut off the water at the end of the hose if it detects a leak in the unit!

They are very clever bit's of kit! Applaud Smiley

 
They need to be for the money :D
You can get good bargains on new ones on e-bay and the fact that they last 20 years makes them cheap in the long run.

I love them. Got a hoover, fridge and dishwasher from them. When the washing machine gives up the ghost it'll be replaced with a Miele too!

 
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