socket locations

[septiclecky]

integrated dishwashers have no room behind them for the plug to to fit.what happens if the fuse blows in the plugtop?remove plinth,unscrew dishwasher,wind legs down then pull out the appliance to get at the plug?

Well you would need to remove dishwasher anyway as if the fuse has blown it probily mean the is something wrong with it and needs looking at me thinks

 

[spudmiester]

I don't know? I can't say wris****ch.Can I say S****horpe?

Can we say ****heroe, that small Lancashire town ?

 

[spudmiester]

Can we say ****heroe, that small Lancashire town ?

No, it seems we cant !

 

[avinalarf]

moving away slightly from my OP - the kitchen designer who raised the query about socket location has another query - he has a Siemens oven which states that it's 15A. He's been trying to get a 15A fuse. I told him that I don't think one exists - am I correct? If he puts a 13a plug on the appliance will the fuse keep blowing? What does one do in this case.

Cheers all.

 

[batty]

Mrs Larf

Not good idea to put 15 amp load on 13 amp plug. Could change circuit breaker to 16 or 20 amps.

Batty

 

[steptoe]

not for a plug top in any case, they do exist in 1361 form tho.

is the oven circuit wired in a radial, or is it taken from the ring final?

if its the latter then you may be in trouble.

if its a radial then you can protect it by a 15a 1361 or a 16a mcb, then use a DP switch for local isolation.

 

[Apache]

wouldn't diversity apply here? If max load was 15A a 13A fuse may be perfectly sufficient. My understanding is even a 13A fuse can handle a higher load for a period of time

:|

 

[kme]

Well - yes, but then again no.

Under general day-to-day usage, it`d probably be ok.

Special occasion, chrimbo etc. Full load bang. Besides, as we`ve recently covered on another thread, a 13A plug/socket is not generally a happy bit of kit, when asked to deliver a sustained 10A+

Nat: On a radial with 20A DP switch Everbods happy.

 

[Apache]

Well - yes, but then again no.Under general day-to-day usage, it`d probably be ok.

Special occasion, chrimbo etc. Full load bang. Besides, as we`ve recently covered on another thread, a 13A plug/socket is not generally a happy bit of kit, when asked to deliver a sustained 10A+

Nat: On a radial with 20A DP switch Everbods happy.

Hang on a moment! Don't remember any problem asking for 10A or even 13A it was 2 water heaters drawing 20A+ that melted things. Someone was told the MK switches are continuously rates 13A and the gist seemed to be a higher load for a short period is likely to be within working tolerance. If memory serves :|

so likely ok on a standard SSO/DSO?

 

[kme]

Hang on a moment! Don't remember any problem asking for 10A or even 13A it was 2 water heaters drawing 20A+ that melted things. Someone was told the MK switches are continuously rates 13A and the gist seemed to be a higher load for a short period is likely to be within working tolerance. If memory serves :| so likely ok on a standard SSO/DSO?

I wouldn`t want a long cycle high current item like max 15A cooker on SSO, be it "likely ok" or not!

As you said, a 13A fuse can happily deliver more for a short period. BUT, bear in mind that the melted incidences were 13A plug and SINGLE socket, which have likely got 13A fuses in the loading plug.

Didn`t help them survive the experience, did it?

I stand by my comments, for a sustained (usually heating) load

 

[Apache]

I'm not even attempting to contradict you KME - just like to understand why.

 

[kme]

Understand that mate - I`m just trying to explain.

Heating is usually the predominant loading, in a domestic environment. If it heats something up, it uses relatively high levels of go-juice.

Yes, that plug may have been overloaded, to melt. But the fuse allowed it to......?

I`ve regularly changed plugs / sockets which are heat damaged, yet there is no loose wire, or other issue. it is simply down to the load overheating the plug / socket.

As regards the double socket=26A thing, I think you`ll find that the person who made that remark was shown to have fabricated his "phone call".

I like to try and be safe, wherever possible. If I can connect medium current (>10A), extended cycle loads via DP switch, then I will.

Yes? no? maybe??

 

[avinalarf]

Mrs LarfNot good idea to put 15 amp load on 13 amp plug. Could change circuit breaker to 16 or 20 amps.

Batty

Batty, I told him this and he says that he's had an electrician in there already! Seems like he's putting it on the ring main. Surely this can't be right???

KME - what you said about 13A not being able to sustain 10A consistently...at what rating should one be looking at a radial for then???

 

[Mr Sworld]

Well, with diversity it can be done.

Diversity on the cooker allows the first 10A of the load plus 30% of the remaining load

So for a 15A cooker the rating is:

10A + (30% x 5A)

which equals:

10A + 1.5A = 11.5A

Which can safely be supplied by a 13A plug.

(But please only on a SSO! :^O )

 

[kme]

Batty, I told him this and he says that he's had an electrician in there already! Seems like he's putting it on the ring main. Surely this can't be right???It isn`t ideal :O:O

KME - what you said about 13A not being able to sustain 10A consistently...at what rating should one be looking at a radial for then???

A radial s/o circuit could have an *infinite* no. of outlets. each capable of delivering up to 13A. The whole cct, as you know, would only be rated at 16 / 20A for 2.5mm Therefore, that circuit is not expecting a standing load of 50% of its maximum, in my opinion.

Anything, which can be classed as a fixed appliance, and draws between 10 and 13A, I`d put on an FCU. 13A and above, I would want a seperate cct for (unless we`re talking oven & hob, which may, in the right circumstances, feed from one cct.)

Mr. S. That was the reason I added the "yes", into the "yes, and no". Although diversity can be allowed for a cooker, which combines the functions of oven & hob, in my opinion, an oven alone may well draw its rated capacity for an extended period of time.

KME

 

[steptoe]

I dont think we can apply diversity for a 13amp socket outlet....

the clue is in the name,

13amp outlet

 

[Mr Sworld]

Opps... Didn't read the whole post!

Some cookers will only pull their full load when they are set to 'auto-clean' function. They will go up to a temperature well above normal cooking temperatures for about two hours.

Always worth reading the instruction manual if you can!

 

[avinalarf]

Although diversity can be allowed for a cooker, which combines the functions of oven & hob, in my opinion, an oven alone may well draw its rated capacity for an extended period of time.

Morning

KME - can you explain the reason for your above statement for my benefit please?

 

[Apache]

MorningKME - can you explain the reason for your above statement for my benefit please?

cooker has a number of varaibles, mine has 4 rings, 2 ovens and a seperate grill. I could use all these on max at once but I wouldn't! Maybe 1 oven going and a couple of rings on simmer. so only using ~50% of quoted capacity (probably much less when thermostats stop heating when upto temp etc).

An oven on it's own is likely to be 'on' at close to full capacity most of the time it's in use.

This is what I assume but KME will no doubt correct me if I'm wrong

 

[kme]

Spotio onio Apache

(pidgin welsh)