sockets,switches height

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Page 11 Part M

"Where the requirements apply

Application of Part M

0.1 The requirements apply if:

a. a non-domestic building or a dwelling is newly erected ;

b. an existing non-domestic building is extended or undergoes a material alteration; or

c. an existing building or part of an existing building undergoes a material change of use to a hotel or boarding house, institution, public building or shop (explained in Regulation 2)

Section b. above is the pertinent section as, under the regulations, material changes in dwellings are affected in as much as

You are not allowed to make changes that would worsen any existing compliance with part M, or that changes or additions themselves are less compliant with that existing. (if a building has been designed with Part M in mind, any changes etc, must comply) say if you were rewiring a house built after Part M was introduced)

This would apply even if the existing 'compliances' were by default in design or planning (usually predating Part M), or had been planned with Part M in mind (Post Part M)

if a dwelling already complies - you cannot do anything to make it worse! by way of exanmple: if he sanitation is Part M compliant and the sockets are not, you can put sockets in where you want, but cannot alter the the sanitation so it is less compliant

I hope this helps with the understanding.

 
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Overall a good debate again, I think that the common consenus is that where we can - we try and often do comply with the rquirements of part M, whether we are actually required to do so or not, .....cause we are like that, we want to make life easy for everyone!!. But just doing so without understanding why or whether we can or not is not good enough for so called professionals

 
Do not forget that a "rewire" could be done in stages to suit a clients budget. Replacing sockets and wiring in bedrooms, lounges, dinning rooms, halls, landings by amending an existing circuit is not notifiable for anything and the local LABC would not be involved in signing anything off, indeed a DIY'er could do it themselves. Work done in that fashion has no requirement for compliance with Part M. To suggest that if a professional electrician happened to do the work in one job, that the DIY'er could have done over several months themselves, now somehow makes Part M become applicable, shows a distinct lack of understanding about how the statutory regulations work in accordance with the guidance of BS7671. As is often the case misunderstanding get passed between electricians then get set info electrical folk law.

Doc H.

 
I agree with everyone else on when we have to work to part M

Measurement-

When marking out sockets and switches I always mark the centre of the box. 1150 and 500 . Best of all kitchen sockets and light switch can be at the same height 1150mm to centre. I try to force all customers to adopt this, it saves there back when plugging stuff in, and my back when fitting. Light switches are easier for my small children and my misses Scottish family to reach ......... Inlaws and children..... I changed my mind make them all higher, 2000mm high for everything

 
The Scots will like that , unable to reach saves money on Leccie!!!

 
Scenario 1:

You do a rewire for a homeowner, you conform to the building regs, the homeowner doesn't like the heights. What have you done? catered to disabilities that the homeowner doesn't have.

There's a logical reason why this applies to new builds only... because the homeowner hasn't been decided yet.

Scenario 2:

You are working on an extension, you conform to the building regs. It looks stupid because it doesn't match the rest of the house. What have you done? Been every interior designers worst nightmare.

 
Dont even get me started on this, It's my house, payed for with my money, I will put my sockets and switches at the height that suits me

 
Dont even get me started on this, It's my house, payed for with my money, I will put my sockets and switches at the height that suits me
So when you build an extension to YOUR house, you will build in a 60 degree steep staircase, only 400mm wide and with a headroom of only 1.8 metres, because it's YOUR house and those dimensions suit YOU.

And you won't bother with an extract fan in the kitchen and the bathroom because you don't want them.

I don't think so. Whether you like it or not, certain work comes under building control, and then I'm afraid you have to comply with building regulations.

 
I will put my switches and sockets in at a height that suits my handicapped stepdaughter, so she can reach them when she leans out of her wheelchair, not at some abitariy height decided by some one sat on a nice comfy office chair

 
did a job for an elderly couple a few weeks back where I raised a selection of sockets to table height so they didn't have to bend down anymore.

I got a nice selection of biscuits with my tea too

 
for info in Part M it does say that requirements may be met by utilising the suggested heights between 450 and 1200 not that they have to be . Again it is open to interpretation, usually by some LABC officer who has no idea but what he/she has been instructed to do.

You will satisfy part M in this respect by having all light switches and wall mounted sockets at 700mmm from finished floor levelfloor, all in a nice neat line!!!!!!!!!! now wouldn't that look great:Applaud

 
Nice to read everyone's opinions once again and will take it on board thanks everyone

 
The wiring regulations all good sparks should be complying with when fitting socket outlets can be found on page 174 of BGB..

553 Accessories

553.1.1 thro 553.1.7 Plugs and Sockets outlets.

No exact heights are given because the wiring regulations do not stipulate any hieghts....

These regs should always be followed for rewires moves & changes etc...

As some of my esteemed forumbulaor members have said...

In certain situations Building regulations part M is also applicable....

But the old saying... Regs are not retrospective comes to mind...

We do not have to bring an old property up to comply with all new regs..

just as the garage don't have to fit air bags, rear seat belts of fog lights on 30+ year old car!!

:| :coffee

---------- Post Auto-Merged at 08:38 ---------- Previous post was made at 08:27 ----------

Hi guys are there set heights for switches and sockets not got any books to hand as van is in garage I normally put sockets at 300mm to bottom and switches 1300 mm to bottom but doing a rewire sockets are 400mm to bottom and switches 1400mm client wants them at same height wot do u guys put yours at on a general domestic THANKS
for info in Part M it does say that requirements may be met by utilising the suggested heights between 450 and 1200 not that they have to be . Again it is open to interpretation, usually by some LABC officer who has no idea but what he/she has been instructed to do.You will satisfy part M in this respect by having all light switches and wall mounted sockets at 700mmm from finished floor levelfloor, all in a nice neat line!!!!!!!!!! now wouldn't that look great:Applaud
Key points here as Steve T highlights Part M would only be independently checked where other structural building works are ongoing and an LABC bod comes out to inspect the said works....

BUT as Alpha Beta said its a "Rewire".....

No LABC would be setting foot through the door anyway!!!

This will ultimately be down to the spark to agree with the client and just do the job keeping to regs 553...

Then do an electrical cert stating compliance with BS7671 and everyone is happy...

AND..

there is NO serious danger of shock, fire, penetration of smoke damp or other nasties that could endanger the occupants of the said property....

Or another way of putting it.. A small dose of common sense whilst doing your job safely!

:)

 
Did I read somewhere the suggestion that ground floor fittings (sockets, CU's, jb's etc)should be positioned "high enough" to avoid damage by flood waters?

Thinking about though, in a flood, even if the flood water doesn't cover the sockets the plaster at that height will probably be knackered anyway!

So, sockets etc to highest tide mark then! ;) Oh, and NO lights/power in a basement...........or everything IP68!

 
Have done new builds in High flood risk areas where it was stipulated that a light had to be installed in the loft so that it would illuminate the escape route (out through a velux window), just didn't figure how the light was going to remain powered once the water had risen above the cu??

Also did a full disabled persons bungalow with all switches and sockets to 900mm ffl and the cu at 600mm ffl. This was for wheelchair bound person, only problem I could see is that the wheelchair would not fit into the cupboard where the cu was installed. Go figure, architects really are brainless.

 
Have done new builds in High flood risk areas where it was stipulated that a light had to be installed in the loft so that it would illuminate the escape route (out through a velux window), just didn't figure how the light was going to remain powered once the water had risen above the cu??Also did a full disabled persons bungalow with all switches and sockets to 900mm ffl and the cu at 600mm ffl. This was for wheelchair bound person, only problem I could see is that the wheelchair would not fit into the cupboard where the cu was installed. Go figure, architects really are brainless.
maintained fitting?

 
Shed would have if I was responsible for design however I was only hired help for my manual abilities wasn't being paid for my technical brains. They perhaps realised that they wouldn't be able to afford that!!

 
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