Speedfit Ufh

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dave2

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Has anyone wired up one of these systems using the speedfit control panel?

Don't understand what the live in and live out to the boiler is.

 
Normally on an under floor heating manifold controller it's a volt free relay contact to give a call for heat to the boiler.

In our case we have two UFH manifolds and the hot water tank. So each is plumbed fed via it's own 2 port valve.

So call for heat from one UFH controller opens the 2 port valve for that circuit, and it's the contacts on the 2 port valve that fires the boiler.

 
You need to understand the whole system.

The boiler won't just be running one under floor heating manifold and nothing else, so it's no good just firing the boiler directly from the UFH manifold controller.  what about hot water?

I guess if it's a combi boiler for hot water and there is only one UFH manifold then you could wire the call for heat from the UFH direct to the boiler. Combi boilers tend to want a volt free contact so check the UFH can provide that. If it only has switched L then you may have to use a relay to get the volt free contact you probably need.

But we are guessing as we don't know the full system.

 
It's a mains pressure water system.

I have no problems with the hot water and upstairs radiators.

They are all working correctly and wired to their own wiring centre.

The ufh controls and manifold are situated remotely from the boiler and hot water tank.

All I need is a switched live from ufh to the boiler.

The ufh diagram shows a live in and live out which I don't understand.

I could take a switched live from the orange wire of the ufh zone valve but would rather stick to the MI's if possible.

 
I would check with John Guest.

Looking at that diagram, the ufh controller does seem to be able to handle either 230v or volt free boiler control. The live out from the boiler (yellow) being the boiler permanent live (or the wetted side if volt free), the controller makes the contact if there is a demand, the grey wire then becomes the switched live, so you should be able join the grey wire to the SL of the boiler along with your orange from your radiator circuit valve.

 
It's a mains pressure water system.

I have no problems with the hot water and upstairs radiators.

They are all working correctly and wired to their own wiring centre.

The ufh controls and manifold are situated remotely from the boiler and hot water tank.

All I need is a switched live from ufh to the boiler.

The ufh diagram shows a live in and live out which I don't understand.

I could take a switched live from the orange wire of the ufh zone valve but would rather stick to the MI's if possible.
You are feeding us the puzzle in pieces.

So there's a hot water tank and a radiator circuit that both have a motorised valve and that bit is wired and working.

So with a bit of luck your plumber will have fitted another motorised valve for the UFH.

So the Live in is well live in, what bit of that don't you understand?

the switched L is an output from the manifold and it goes to the brown of the motorised valve for the UFH circuit, so when any one of the rooms with UFH calls for heat, the UFH controller will open it's motorised valve.

Then you connect the orange and grey feedback contact wires from the UFH motorised valve in parallel with those of the other motorised valves. These are already connected to fire the boiler and work.

Just to put the cat amongst the pigeons I hope you have a different time clock for the UFH and radiators otherwise the customer is going to be less than pleased with the way it works.

 
ok, without knowing just how its all configured,

I'd have a go at this,

switched live from UFH manifold is used to open the zone valve, orange on the zone valve is used to fire the boiler,sp,

from your boiler stat controls take the Live out to grey on zone valve, orange on zone valve is stat return at boiler.

you dont want the boiler firing if the stat hasnt opened.

beat by PD,

but it seems we agree with it

 
Having had a quick look over the manual it would appear that the hot water should be wired into this panel and the heating (rads) is wired through the heating in out termination.

I seem to remember the UFH system I wired had a similar panel whereby all heating and water operations were wired through the one panel.

 
Having had a quick look over the manual it would appear that the hot water should be wired into this panel and the heating (rads) is wired through the heating in out termination.

I seem to remember the UFH system I wired had a similar panel whereby all heating and water operations were wired through the one panel.
It could be done that way, but the ufh controller is remote from the existing wiring centre apparently, so would require new cable runs for all the controls for hw and rads upstairs. I would leave the existing as is, just in case the controller fuse blew there would still be heating upstairs and hw.
 
You are feeding us the puzzle in pieces.

So there's a hot water tank and a radiator circuit that both have a motorised valve and that bit is wired and working.

So with a bit of luck your plumber will have fitted another motorised valve for the UFH.

So the Live in is well live in, what bit of that don't you understand?

the switched L is an output from the manifold and it goes to the brown of the motorised valve for the UFH circuit, so when any one of the rooms with UFH calls for heat, the UFH controller will open it's motorised valve.

Then you connect the orange and grey feedback contact wires from the UFH motorised valve in parallel with those of the other motorised valves. These are already connected to fire the boiler and work.

Just to put the cat amongst the pigeons I hope you have a different time clock for the UFH and radiators otherwise the customer is going to be less than pleased with the way it works.
Each ufh zone is controlled by its own programmable roomstat. The hot water and rads are controlled by a separate 2 channel programmer.

 
Each ufh zone is controlled by its own programmable roomstat. The hot water and rads are controlled by a separate 2 channel programmer.
That's good. A lot of people just put the UFH and radiators on the same programmer and the results are disappointing due to the very different warm up times.

 
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