Tripped Switch But Now No Power

[MikeJhn]

It may be one of those silly breakers that don't physically move when they activate and the breaker may need to be physically switched off and on again.

For clarification there isn't a regulation that says you can't use a different manufacturers MCB in an enclosure, however in BS7671 which is a recommendation only, it says to follow the manufactures instructions which has been interpreted by most electricians to say that you can't mix breakers in the same enclosure.

 

[Andy™]

Ok, thanks for that clarification.

Just had another thought though - since there are two "heater" breakers that I have no idea what they are used for, could I take one of them out and replace it in the "sockets" breaker?

if the rating is suitable then yes

 

[JabbaKane]

Thanks for all the replies. I'll see if I can easily swap an existing breaker over and if not, or that doesn't work, I think a new board is the better option - especially since the existing one is likely 30-ish years old!

 

[binky]

Ok, thanks for that clarification.

Just had another thought though - since there are two "heater" breakers that I have no idea what they are used for, could I take one of them out and replace it in the "sockets" breaker?

You could transfer the socket wiring to one of those and see if it works. It's as simple as moving one wire - isolate the board first though.

Can't see how many amps the heater breakers are in your photo, so I'm guessing 16amps, which will work. Another guess is those were for greenhouses.

 

[JabbaKane]

Can't see how many amps the heater breakers are in your photo, so I'm guessing 16amps, which will work. Another guess is those were for greenhouses.

There doesn't seem to be anything indicating the amps on that panel at all... I was hoping something might be written on the breaker (maybe the sides or back?) so that I would know that it would ok to swap a "heater" one for the "sockets"! I guess I'll find out soon enough

 

[johnb2713]

There doesn't seem to be anything indicating the amps on that panel at all... I was hoping something might be written on the breaker (maybe the sides or back?) so that I would know that it would ok to swap a "heater" one for the "sockets"! I guess I'll find out soon enough

Is there not a number on the end of the mcb lever?

 

[Fleeting]

A new board would be your best bet. You can only get breakers for an old board like the one you have second hand. So there's no guarantee they are any good. It might actually be a problem with the socket itself, which I would guess is the same age.

Schneider still produce devices for that.

 

[Fleeting]

It may be one of those silly breakers that don't physically move when they activate and the breaker may need to be physically switched off and on again.

For clarification there isn't a regulation that says you can't use a different manufacturers MCB in an enclosure, however in BS7671 which is a recommendation only, it says to follow the manufactures instructions which has been interpreted by most electricians to say that you can't mix breakers in the same enclosure.

You aren't going to find a non compatible device to fit that as they are Stab-Loc style. Suggesting you can fit non compatible devices is quite frankly poor advice.

 

[Murdoch]

For clarification there isn't a regulation that says you can't use a different manufacturers MCB in an enclosure, however in BS7671 which is a recommendation only, it says to follow the manufactures instructions which has been interpreted by most electricians to say that you can't mix breakers in the same enclosure.

Not sure I agree with that. The manufacturers and CPS's suggest mix and match to be C2's

 

[binky]

Schneider still produce devices for that.

I'm surprised at that! Mind you I haven't looked at one of those boards for years.

 

[binky]

Not sure I agree with that. The manufacturers and CPS's suggest mix and match to be C2's

But that's 'require improvement' which I would interpret as a ,'no'.

 

[Andy™]

Not sure I agree with that. The manufacturers and CPS's suggest mix and match to be C2's

if tis a decent fit then C3 (i.e wylex & crabtree, pretty much the same). if its a bad fit and doesn't fit the busbar properly / cover doesn't fit then c2 imo

 

[Andy™]

There doesn't seem to be anything indicating the amps on that panel at all...

rating is on the end of the toggle

 

[kerching]

As said above. The numbers are on the end of the toggles
Not a good pic but looks like 32 20 20 6
But the 20s may be 16s and the 6 may be a 10

Some members on here have loads of them

 

[Phoenix]

I'm surprised at that! Mind you I haven't looked at one of those boards for years.

Not cheap though: https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/products/3879894-16a-sp-10ka-type-c-mcb and AFAIK only available in C curve.

You'd pay that if you had a few circuits to add to a nearly full 12 Way TPN QOE board but probably not worth it on this board. And make sure you are sat down before you look at what an RCBO costs for it.

AFAIK The board is a Qwikline and would take either 6ka qwikline mcbs or 10ka QOE devices from the commerical range, the fomer has no replacement, but QOVS is compatable with the later

The newer Quikline II was similar in that it could ould use the KQ range devices. But both are atill available in newer varients, Qwikline II became Resi9 and KQ become iKQ.

No compatablity beween Qwikline and Quickline II ! So its reclaimed breaker or expensive QOVS range I'm afraid

Domae became easy9

 

[ProDave]

If that board was fitted 30 years aqo I bet it was second hand then.

Those type when they trip need to be pushed down before pushing them back up. You could just try turning the breaker off then back on again.

Despite them being obsolete, I like them, but for probably all the wrong reasons. You can unplug and swap an MCB without turning the whole board off, which is great for maintenance of an industrial unit with poorly documented wiring so you can make additions or alterations without shutting down all activity in the building (which would usually mean out of hours working for me) I have a good box of spare QOE MCB's

 

[SPECIAL LOCATION]

It may be one of those silly breakers that don't physically move when they activate and the breaker may need to be physically switched off and on again.

For clarification there isn't a regulation that says you can't use a different manufacturers MCB in an enclosure, however in BS7671 which is a recommendation only, it says to follow the manufactures instructions which has been interpreted by most electricians to say that you can't mix breakers in the same enclosure.

For clarification BS7671 does NOT say to follow manufactures instructions...

However regulation 134.1.1 does state that "the installation of electrical equipment shall take account of manufactures instructions".

And regulation 536.4.203 also states "in low voltage assemblies to the BS EN 61439 series, e.g. consumer units, distribution boards, incorporated devices and components shall only be those declared suitable according to the assembly manufactures instructions or literature"

Note 2 goes on to say that if you do mix different manufactures components in the same assembly, the person introducing the variation from the original design verification, takes on the responsibilities of the assembly manufacture to confirm all amend design devices are suitable with all its corresponding obligations.

In summary is does not say you cannot..
But if you do and something later goes pear-shaped with brown stuff hitting the air movement device....

You don't have much of a leg to stand on as there is guidance suggesting you should only mix if you have back up evidence that the different devices you have chosen to mix are compatible in the same enclosure.

 

[Fleeting]

Think you'd have a job to mix and match in that board.

 

[SPECIAL LOCATION]

Hi. My lawnmower recently caused the plug socket in the garage to trip and when I flipped the circuit breaker switch back on - which seems to control both the garage lights and the power socket - the lights are working fine but the power to the socket isn't working anymore.

I have a chest freezer plugged in to this socket and tested it by plugging in another appliance but still no power.

I'm not sure if there is a fuse in the wall socket that might've blown and might just need replacing so any advice on what to check or what could cause that to happen would be much appreciated...

What was the actual fault with the lawn mower? Earth leakage...?
or a dead-short overload..?

If it was a dead short, it is possible that an old MCB has finally died..
Or a cable joint has failed..
Does the lawnmower still work?

I would guess approx 30-45 mins investigations by a competent person with approved tester(s) that can check continuity, voltages etc..
Could identify and offer solutions to this..

Generally plugging other appliances in to test sockets can be a bit hit & miss as a fault investigation method..

 

[MikeJhn]

You don't have much of a leg to stand on as there is guidance suggesting you should only mix if you have back up evidence that the different devices you have chosen to mix are compatible in the same enclosure.

Not trying to start an argument, but what would make another unit that fits without modification etc incompatible within any enclosure? I think it was wording by the manufacturers to ensure that only their products where used.