Van woes :(:(:(

[Andy™]

is there an ignition supply getting to the starter to trigger it?

edit: scrap that, just noticed you said the solenoid operated

 

[NozSpark]

The solenoid is operating (motor not spinning), only when the glow plug relay is disconnected:O

When the glow plug relay is connected I still get the chattering relay in the engine compartment box

 

[Andy™]

bit strange with the starter, if the solenoid is operating, i would expect the motor to turn. have you checked there is a supply at the starter?

 

[NozSpark]

Well, I tried to spin the old one up with a booster pack!

 

[Sidewinder]

We need some systematic ideas here.

Noz, please describe again what you have done with the glow plugs & glow plug relay.

Also what is the exact model & year is the van mate?

I have some cct drgs here & other info.

 

[NozSpark]

Right,,

Its a 1.9 655D (2000 Y plate) - non turbo

Glow plugs replaced about 2 weeks ago, 2 were faulty

With all leads connected I don't get a glow plug warning light on the dash with ignition - also get chattering relay in engine bay relay box - starter solenoid won't click on crank

With the output plug disconnected I get the glow plug warning light as expected (goes out after about 5 seconds) - no chattering relay - starter solenoid clicks on crank but starter does not spin up

HTH

---------- Post Auto-Merged at 23:51 ---------- Previous post was made at 23:43 ----------

I've just joined a Renault forum and someone's just said that there's an inline fuse in the starter motor supply lead near the battery teminal:O

 

[Sidewinder]

There may be it will be a "fusible link" though, big metal link in the fuse box, it won't be a blade fuse.

It also won't be in the power line to the starter, it will be in the line to the solenoid.

 

[NozSpark]

Just a quick one to let you know that I sorted it this morning.....

I checked the voltage to the starter and found that it was 12V, so that's ok.. Then in a flash of inspiration I connected a jump lead from my battery -ve terminal to an engine bracket. Turned the ignition and got all the lights, turned to crank and the engine eventually started (weedy lead!), so I doubled up the lead and it started fine.

So now with new -ve leads from battery to body work and another from the engine to the body work it starts better than ever... I got an extra long lead from the engine to the body work and took it to the same bolt as the battery lead..

So result

---------- Post Auto-Merged at 11:46 ---------- Previous post was made at 11:44 ----------

So thanks for all the help guys

If I could buy you a Guinness I would

So seeing as I can't just go and help yourself to one out of KME's fridge.... Drink responsibly

 

[Sidewinder]

OK, so your earth strap to the engine has broken I would guess.

Could be corroded at one end or other too.

High resistance connection dropping the voltage when the current goes up, i.e. cranking & glow plugs.

See if you can figure out what size the battery cables are I may have some 16mm tri in the unit, that would do, if they are 25, try Canoe for a m or so.

Some round ring crimp lugs and you're done.

I would not try to rely on 6491x type wire for long if that was what you had to fit for an engine earth, vibration and all that!

Glad you got is sorted mate, as I say if it is 16mm you want, I'm sure I can send a m or so up.

I'll check the next time I'm in the unit, Mon or Tue probably.

HTH

 

[NozSpark]

No.. All done mate,,,,

I went down the motor factors this morning and got the proper thing for <

 

[Sidewinder]

OK coolio,

Glad you are sorted.

 

[Evans Electric]

Do you know , I've been thinking all along that it was a poor earth connection between the engine and the body :coat ; \ ; \

:tongue in cheek

Anyway , glad you sorted it M8 and that it was simple and inexpensive.

 

[Andy™]

i thought the same earlier, but some of the problems didnt seem to go with it so i didnt say anything

 

[Evans Electric]

Yeah ! Yeah ! :red card :red card:Applaud

 

[batty]

Should have rodded it.