Wago 773 connectors

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Robin Spark

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I 've got an A4 size chart from Wagobox, showing variuos applications for the wago connectors.

Now the 773 pushfit yellow, orange, magenta and grey connectors are all rated at 24amps and I was already aware of that.

The cage clamp connectors are rated at 32amps and these are the ones that I use when either extending a ring final circuit or adding a spur etc.

The leaflet I have clearly demonstrates using the 24amp pushfit connectors on a ringmain.

What do you think? Acceptable or not?

 
I 've got an A4 size chart from Wagobox, showing variuos applications for the wago connectors.Now the 773 pushfit yellow, orange, magenta and grey connectors are all rated at 24amps and I was already aware of that.

The cage clamp connectors are rated at 32amps and these are the ones that I use when either extending a ring final circuit or adding a spur etc.

The leaflet I have clearly demonstrates using the 24amp pushfit connectors on a ringmain.

What do you think? Acceptable or not?
7671 requires cables used on a ring to be designed to a min of 20a after de-rating etc. so 24a connector is OK.

 
Oh thats good then, I'll start using the pushfits to save a few pennies :)

 
HI all Just to clarify are we saying it is acceptable to use 24 amp connectors on a ring?
A correctly designed ring should have a balanced load, so either half of the leg should not be taking more than half of the total load. A 32amp supplied ring should have no more than 16amps down each half, the 2.5mm PVC T&E will typically be rated for around 20A - 26A. As such a 24A rated connector should be adequate. Though it is feasible a poor designed ring could have higher current along one leg, 24amps is still a reasonable tolerance zone or 8amps (24A-16A). Excluding kitchens most domestic rings would probably work less than 20A anyway.

Doc H.

 
We connect them to 20A rated devices to act as junction boxes all the time and never bat an eyelid!...

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Think about it...

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DP switches in kitchens for built in appliance socket outlets by chance?

 
I have often wondered about this. I understand why 20a is ok if extwnding but Theoretically, on a spur you could draw 26 amps or more in a fault/socket overload. Should we not use a 32a for spur?

[quote name='Andy

 
Not required, a double socket itself is only rated for 20 Amps TOTAL load by most makers.

Bs 7671 Appendix on standard circuits shows a 2.5mm Ring Final circuit with 2.5mm UNFUSED spur to ONE double socket as acceptable.

 
A correctly designed ring should have a balanced load, so either half of the leg should not be taking more than half of the total load. A 32amp supplied ring should have no more than 16amps down each half, the 2.5mm PVC T&E will typically be rated for around 20A - 26A. As such a 24A rated connector should be adequate. Though it is feasible a poor designed ring could have higher current along one leg, 24amps is still a reasonable tolerance zone or 8amps (24A-16A). Excluding kitchens most domestic rings would probably work less than 20A anyway. Doc H.
All very well if your breaking into the ring half way round, but if you need to break into the ring at, or close to, the extremities it might be a bit more problematic?

 
Not required, a double socket itself is only rated for 20 Amps TOTAL load by most makers.Bs 7671 Appendix on standard circuits shows a 2.5mm Ring Final circuit with 2.5mm UNFUSED spur to ONE double socket as acceptable.
Yes, but it's not unusual to see two 13amp devices plugged in to a twin socket?

 
I disagree... Toaster and kettle for starters...
is your toaster going to be on long enough while the kettle is boiling to cause a problem?

 
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