wiring Emergency lights

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adammid

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Can anyone suggest how they would wire emergency lights so that when they are tested it will not switch off the normal lights.

The emergency lights are to be incorporated into the standard lights. Ie one unit. They are recessed grid type lights in a classroom.

So during normal operation the standard/emergency lights will be on and then during power failure will switch over to emergency. The standard lights will be on normally and then during testing of emergency lights will remain on.

My concern is if the emergency lights are to work as a standard fitting and all other standard lights are to remain on when tested how the hell can you tell if they are in test mode? Led maybe?

This is what the consultant has requested.

 
Use a "fishplate" switch to turn off the

normal supply to the luminaire that is the

emergency fitting. That way only that

light will go out, and its emergency part

should illuminate.

 
Thanks Technician. I have never heard of a fishplate switch. Is that like a standard key switch? Will there be any extra wiring? I take it the emergency lights would require a separate main and switch wire to each light?

 
Thanks Technician. I have never heard of a fishplate switch. Is that like a standard key switch? Will there be any extra wiring? I take it the emergency lights would require a separate main and switch wire to each light?
There is a little extra wiring, and the emergency light

needs to have a permanent live to it. The switch is

operated by a plate that looks like, yes, a fish. One

way to do it would be to have a double switch, one for

normal lights and the other to operate as a fishplate

switch.

The fishplate switch cuts off the permanent live simulating

loss of power. The relay in the emergency light changes over

and the battery powered light comes on.

Depending upon design, a little LED is lit when the

emergency fitting is powered up.

The fitting should have its own instructions so, there

may be some variation on what I have said. Read these

VERY carefully. The battery should have a declared life

of (I think) 10 years.

 
Use a "fishplate" switch to turn off the normal supply to the luminaire that is the

emergency fitting. That way only that

light will go out, and its emergency part

should illuminate.
If the fitting is a normal light fitting which is also an emergency the key switch needs to be a double pole key switch as you also need to switch off the switch wire as well as the supply.

 
Cheers guys.

Am I right in thinking the emergency lights will have two ballasts?

One for the emergency part and one for the standard light part?

 
Cheers guys.Am I right in thinking the emergency lights will have two ballasts?

One for the emergency part and one for the standard light part?
Depends as tridonic do what is called a combo unit which has has everything inside.

 
If the fitting is a normal light fitting which is also an emergency the key switch needs to be a double pole key switch as you also need to switch off the switch wire as well as the supply.
Good point Septic I omitted that bit.

 
I think you should try to convince the consultant to have all the normal lights turn out when the emergency is switched on, it makes finding them a lot easier if say you have 45 fittings you know there are 4 emergencys

 
I think you should try to convince the consultant to have all the normal lights turn out when the emergency is switched on, it makes finding them a lot easier if say you have 45 fittings you know there are 4 emergencys
I think I can understand what you mean but

as I understand it, while testing emergency

light operation, impacts upon other users

should be kept to a minimum.

 
True enough, but all the systems I have

seen permit the emergency lights to be

checked, without blacking out the area.

---------- Post Auto-Merged at 16:00 ---------- Previous post was made at 15:55 ----------

If you look at the associated threads on this

matter, I think you find some interesting and

informative stories.

 
Just take your feed to common on key switch first, then loop of common on test key switch to common on light switch. Switch wire as normal of switch and emergency perm feed of key switch as normal. This way when key switch is operated it only breaks the perm supply to em fittings, switch is still fed as its looped of common side. Therefore providing switched live to remaining fittings allowing them to work. The combi fittings will still go into emergency, if they have separate inverter then only the em tube will go into emergency,

Also the charging led's will go out therefore you'll know which ones have operated aswell.

 
Well if the Consultant 'required' me to do it then I would 'require' the Consultant to tell me how to do it!!!!

I know how to do it, but let the consultant earn his wedge!....we bail out these to$$ers too many times and for no reward.....how much do they earn compared to what you earn??

Surely it is no coincidence that if you take the 'ons' and 'lta' out of the word Consultant you are left with .... :coat

 
Cheers Parky, I'll prob do that but use 3 core and join through the emergency perm live at the normal switch and at every normal light. Will save having to run separate twins to the combined light. Guess its much of a muchness really!

 
Architects and consulktants (small c!) do not have a monopoly on real world knowledge, we are responsible jointly and seperately for design install and commisioning, therefor you should play an active role in the design by telling said person , why something can't be done or if permissable, how it can be achieved safely and appropriately. if you fit something that is inaapropriate or unsafe you to will be legally liable as you are expected, as a proffesiional in your chosen field, to apply your grey matter.

 
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