Workshop Electrics

[johnggold]

I am having to demolish my garage for a house extension, so in preparation, I have built a timber workshop 5.5m x 3.6m.

In the short term there will be no cabled electrics, so I am going to run an extension cable from the house, until the house extension builders lay a permanent armoured cable. Will be 6-8 months of use.

I have done lots of house wiring, so I am quite confident in the internal cabling.

I want to fit a "box" that can be used for my extension cable now, and which later can be connected to the permanent cable, or directly replaced by the electrician.

All my internal ring main cabling and lighting will be designed with excess cable at each outlet, so that a qualified electrician will be able to reconnect, to meet UK regulations, when the permanent link is fitted.

Lighting will be added as a spur off the ring main, and all power will be directly on the ring main.

It's just the input "box" configuration I'm not certain of.

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[Murdoch]

Do you realise that what you are proposing to do falls under Part P of the building regs?

 

[Essex1]

Welcome.

I think your electrician should fit one of these on the outside wall where the DB will be. Then on the end of the extension lead fit the female socket to plug into this.

Make sure he fits the female plug on the lead and the male on the shed. Not the other way around.

 

[apprentice87]

Not being funny, but one minute you say you are "quite confident" the next you do not know the name of the "input box..Eh???" configuration..

Oh, the thing above that Essex refers to is an "appliance inlet" See!! you know what to ask for now!! [A 16A one you will be wanting]

john...

 

[steptoe]

but,

dont get one pictured like Essex has shown,

you will need one with a cover,

a motor caravan place should sell them,  [did I just say that? ]

I had to get one there as a client recently supplied one as pictured, not very good if it gets wet whilst unplugged,,,,,,,

most wholesalers only sell similar as pictured.

 

[Essex1]

but,

dont get one pictured like Essex has shown,

you will need one with a cover,

a motor caravan place should sell them,  [did I just say that? ]

I had to get one there as a client recently supplied one as pictured, not very good if it gets wet whilst unplugged,,,,,,,

most wholesalers only sell similar as pictured.

Think about why you are soooooo wrong Steps!

 

[Lurch]

All my internal ring main cabling and lighting will be designed with excess cable at each outlet, so that a qualified electrician will be able to reconnect, to meet UK regulations, when the permanent link is fitted.

Clearly you do not know the first thing about the UK regulations and its requirements. If you feel that the electrician will need to rip everything apart that you have done then you are not competent. Confidence does not mean anything.

Lighting will be added as a spur off the ring main, and all power will be directly on the ring main.

There may be more to this but it does sound odd.

An appliance inlet isn't really going to do a lot of use if someone else is going to have to rip it apart afterwards and re-terminate everything, pretty much pointless. You might as well just wire the end of the extension into the back of the nearest socket.

The best option would be to get the electrician that you will be using to come in and advise as from what you have said so far I wouldn't want to go near anything you have already touched.

 

[Essex1]

but,

dont get one pictured like Essex has shown,

you will need one with a cover,

a motor caravan place should sell them, [did I just say that? ]

I had to get one there as a client recently supplied one as pictured, not very good if it gets wet whilst unplugged,,,,,,,

most wholesalers only sell similar as pictured.

Steps if you fit a female socket instead of a male as in my picture and your job is wired the same as this job you really need to go back and change it mate. Very dangerous. OP. Do not fit a female on your workshop. It must be a male as in my picture.

 

[roys]

Don't think that is what Stepps is saying, I think he is saying it will still be a male socket but the whole socket sits inside a small enclosure in order to keep the whole plus socket arrangement dry. They are specific one designed for this purpose that the caravanning folks use.

 

[NozSpark]

Steps if you fit a female socket instead of a male as in my picture and your job is wired the same as this job you really need to go back and change it mate. Very dangerous.

OP. Do not fit a female on your workshop. It must be a male as in my picture.

Should have gone to Specsavers....

If you read Steptoes message, in no way does he advocate using a female socket...

He said that the op would need one with a flap/cover

 

[Sidewinder]

Once again Essex, thinks he knows better, when in fact, he actually does not!

 

[Essex1]

Don't think that is what Stepps is saying, I think he is saying it will still be a male socket but the whole socket sits inside a small enclosure in order to keep the whole plus socket arrangement dry. They are specific one designed for this purpose that the caravanning folks use.

Have you got a picture? I cannot find one. I thought he meant one of these.

 

[roys]

201454058390 on ebay

 

[Sidewinder]

Try this:

 

[apprentice87]

Noooo, steps meant an appliance inlet with either one of these covers..

http://essentialsupplies.co.uk/acatalog/Dust-Cap-16a-3-pin-Appliance-Inlet-IP44--EA240_16_D.html#SID=636

Or, if you got the sort of appliance inlet with the locking ring [an IP67 one]

a matching cover to go with it!! [like this one!!]

http://essentialsupplies.co.uk/acatalog/Waterproof-Dust-Cap-16a-3-pin-Appliance-Inlet-IP67-EA240_16_DW.html#SID=636

[Note the pictures are different from the actual item as i used one and it did not look like that, at least the IP67 one did not, was like a top hat]

john..

 

[Sidewinder]

201454058390 on ebay

That's another type of option.

Have you got a picture? I cannot find one. I thought he meant one of these.

Well, it seems that you thought wrong, again!

When will you learn?

 

[Essex1]

Well I have never seen one of those before. Look like crap however.

Not sure if the op would want a huge square hole in his workshop to fit that flush.

I would stick to the IP67 rated commando.

 

[Sidewinder]

Why would it have to be flush mounted?

 

[Andy™]

Well I have never seen one of those before. Look like crap however.

Not sure if the op would want a huge square hole in his workshop to fit that flush.

I would stick to the IP67 rated commando.

so because you have never seen one, you immediately assume that he is referring to a socket and then moan about how he is now doing it wrong?

you might be good at what you do now with rail stuff, but this is not the first time you have jumped to conclusions because of your lack of knowledge with something

also, that inlet you suggested may be acceptable for this, however in some cases that will not comply with regulations due to lack of cover (whats the chances you dont know of this?)

 

[Essex1]

so because you have never seen one, you immediately assume that he is referring to a socket and then moan about how he is now doing it wrong?

you might be good at what you do now with rail stuff, but this is not the first time you have jumped to conclusions because of your lack of knowledge with something

also, that inlet you suggested may be acceptable for this, however in some cases that will not comply with regulations due to lack of cover (whats the chances you dont know of this?)

I apologies to Steps.

I ain't afraid to say I got it wrong.

You are right. I am very good at rail stuff. Thanks.

I am not really sure what the cover does as a male commando should not be able to be live without the female inserted and then the connection is made.