Oven stopped working, state of this plug!!
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MarkDavies
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Yes. I’ve checked with my neighbours and we’ve pulled their oven out, same setup on that. My builder replied to my email and said it was “unusual” and is sending an electrician around as a priority apparently so they must realise it’s not as it’s supposed to be. At least they’ve replied and are looking into it which is good.
Does the neighbours setup look ok or is that looking ready to fail
Hopefully it's not the same electrician that did the original job and he will sort the neighbours as well while he is fixing yours
MarkDavies
Member
Well, it doesn’t look like it’s burnt or anything but it’s still a double socket with a 13a fuse so I’d say the fact it hasn’t burnt is just luck?
They are sending the same company to do the work as the original people who did it so it’ll be interesting to see what they have to say about it.
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You need to check the manufactures installation instructions for the make & model of oven..
The fact that it is not a pre-fitted moulded plug already fixed to the flex, suggests that the oven is NOT designed to be run off a 13A plug!
(Some single ovens are, but all the ones I have seen come with a plug already fitted..)
I also thought there was a legal requirement for UK appliances to come with a fitted plug if they are designed to be operated in a domestic environment via a standard 13A socket outlet? e.g.
https://www.hse.gov.uk/foi/internalops/ocs/400-499/oc489_6.htm
I do also know that some ovens come with a connecting flex. but are designed to be used with a hard-wired connection fused via a 16A MCB. Not a 13A plug top cartridge fuse!
Also IMHO.. Those ovens that are designed to be plugged in should NEVER be connected through a double socket outlet..
Just the same as it is not good having washing Machines & Tumble driers sharing double sockets with other appliances...
Basic rule:-
If your appliance is consuming a lot of power, (higher currents), for more than a few minutes, then it typically needs a dedicated single socket outlet for reliable continued long term usage.. NOT a double socket..
Most double sockets are not actually designed to supply 2x 13Amp loads..
I recall some manufactures suggesting 20Amps max shared between the two!
(e.g. 10A & 10A or 13A & 7A)
Kettles / Toasters / Coffee machines / Kitchenaid food mixers etc.. don't consumer power for long time durations, so they can happily share double sockets..
But Ovens are never a good design connected to a double socket.!!
The fact that it is not a pre-fitted moulded plug already fixed to the flex, suggests that the oven is NOT designed to be run off a 13A plug!
(Some single ovens are, but all the ones I have seen come with a plug already fitted..)
I also thought there was a legal requirement for UK appliances to come with a fitted plug if they are designed to be operated in a domestic environment via a standard 13A socket outlet? e.g.
https://www.hse.gov.uk/foi/internalops/ocs/400-499/oc489_6.htm
I do also know that some ovens come with a connecting flex. but are designed to be used with a hard-wired connection fused via a 16A MCB. Not a 13A plug top cartridge fuse!
Also IMHO.. Those ovens that are designed to be plugged in should NEVER be connected through a double socket outlet..
Just the same as it is not good having washing Machines & Tumble driers sharing double sockets with other appliances...
Basic rule:-
If your appliance is consuming a lot of power, (higher currents), for more than a few minutes, then it typically needs a dedicated single socket outlet for reliable continued long term usage.. NOT a double socket..
Most double sockets are not actually designed to supply 2x 13Amp loads..
I recall some manufactures suggesting 20Amps max shared between the two!
(e.g. 10A & 10A or 13A & 7A)
Kettles / Toasters / Coffee machines / Kitchenaid food mixers etc.. don't consumer power for long time durations, so they can happily share double sockets..
But Ovens are never a good design connected to a double socket.!!
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Print a copy of the dual outlet cooker connection plate shown earlier to "educate" the electricians that come to fix it.
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This unfortunately is the product of far to many building companies employing bucket loads of very cheap, semi-skilled, (or possibly unskilled) workers.. wiring up properties...
With just a hand-full of actual qualified competent persons supposedly overseeing the work of these cheap labourers...
The reality is that within any industry, it has always been, and will continue to be acceptable to have unskilled workers being trained on-the-job, under the supervision of more mature experienced qualified and competent workers...
However from my experience of seeing the quality of work on some new builds, (various customers & my own son moved into a new build 2 years ago), I am convinced that the housing construction sector pushes the ratio of Unskilled workers -vs- Skilled workers to the absolute limit they can legally get away with without breaching Health and Safety laws...
So its hardly surprising to find these sort of basic design failures happening!
As Stevie G said.. Its all down to the builders keeping more £££££'s in their pockets by cutting all of the corners that they can,
Rather than doing a good quality, reliable job, that will be trouble free for 20+ years under normal expected domestic usage. !!!
I had a similar issue with a client's oven. Had a melted plug to the point of exposed live parts. Oven rated at 3.45kw- just over 13A but not enought to blow the fuse!
I ran a new cable from the DB to the oven - diagonally opposite!
And terminated it to a 20A DP switch backed up by a 16A MCB.
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