13amp outdoor ev charging socket

[sparky308]

2.5 cable from the OP's consumer unit. Where does 40m come from? Anyway the volt drop for 40m of 2.5 drawing 10 amps is 7.2 volts or 3.1%. So I can't see a problem here.

 

[robv]

2.5 T&E on a 16A RCBO will be fine. I charge my EV overnight on an outdoor 13A socket, charge rate set at 10A, it doesn't even get warm.

Iv heard loads of horror stories about normal 3 pin sockets warping cracking etc that's why I'd be more comfortable using the thicker cable. The run from CU to socket position is only about 3 metres.

 

[Murdoch]

Iv heard loads of horror stories about normal 3 pin sockets warping cracking etc that's why I'd be more comfortable using the thicker cable. The run from CU to socket position is only about 3 metres.

The cable size won’t stop cheap sockets from over heating BUT a proper EV point would

 

[robv]

The cable size won’t stop cheap sockets from over heating BUT a proper EV point would

Yes I would only ever get a EV marked socket nothing else

 

[mainline]

The cable size won’t stop cheap sockets from over heating BUT a proper EV point would

That depends on how small the cable is

 

[sparky308]

Using 4mm cable won't make the socket or plug a different temperature than using a 2.5mm cable! Heat is caused by resistance in the plug/socket contacts. Use a quality EV rated socket plus a quality charger cable and there will be no problem.

 

[Geoff1946]

It seems to me a ridiculous, arguably unacceptable, situation when different basic characteristics of a British Standard device are available. ie ones which can actually operate at nominal capacity, and a vast majority which can only reliably supply a smaller load.
Presumably the sockets "OK'd" for EV charging would also be suitable for (eg) immersion heater, kettle, and cooker hob applications, where component overheating is commonly found. In fact the EV versions perform as one would expect something nominally rated at 13amps.
I can only find an old copy of BS1363, and that appears to require type testing at a 14amp test current. That's a very small safety margin to allow for deterioration due to wear and tear and perhaps this is the basis of many problems.
What is needed, IMO, is an upgrade of the BS to require ALL sockets to be capable of their nominal 13amp capacity for a reasonable lifetime, OR revised to be a 10amp device, with a different standard to provide for higher loads.

 

[robv]

It seems to me a ridiculous, arguably unacceptable, situation when different basic characteristics of a British Standard device are available. ie ones which can actually operate at nominal capacity, and a vast majority which can only reliably supply a smaller load.
Presumably the sockets "OK'd" for EV charging would also be suitable for (eg) immersion heater, kettle, and cooker hob applications, where component overheating is commonly found. In fact the EV versions perform as one would expect something nominally rated at 13amps.
I can only find an old copy of BS1363, and that appears to require type testing at a 14amp test current. That's a very small safety margin to allow for deterioration due to wear and tear and perhaps this is the basis of many problems.
What is needed, IMO, is an upgrade of the BS to require ALL sockets to be capable of their nominal 13amp capacity for a reasonable lifetime, OR revised to be a 10amp device, with a different standard to provide for higher loads.

That's quite a fair comment. I take it the EV charging 3 pin sockets have reinforced contacts at the back where they get wired in. As opposed to bog standard sockets you find round the house