Bathroom Downlighters

[Steve100]

Can I ask a quick question, if you install down lighters in zone 1 can they be 230v providing the lighting circuit is protected by a RCD and the down lighters are suitable for zone 1 and are at least IPX4?

 

[ProDave]

If the MANUFACTURER says they are suitable for zone 1.

 

[SPECIAL LOCATION]

Can I ask a quick question, if you install down lighters in zone 1 can they be 230v providing the lighting circuit is protected by a RCD and the down lighters are suitable for zone 1 and are at least IPX4?

The bit you will want to be reading is...

701.55  Current using equipment in each of the zones...

go down to bullet point (xi)   Luminaries   in Zone 1

Page  200  of the big book

Guinness

Or you could just read P.Ds short answer above..

 

[Steve100]

Thanks Guy's, just one more quick question. If you use a 230v downlighter I presume then that you don't need a transformer? It just that me an a fellow student seem to be disagreeing on this one, as I don't think you would need one as you are not dropping the voltage.

 

[sellers]

you would not need a transformer, also make sure you increase the IP rating if jets of water are likely.

 

[Steve100]

Thanks for clearing that up, saw the bit about IP in the regs and would need to increase to IPX5 with jets of water. So I presume that you would just connect the 1.5 T&E switch return from the junction box to the first downlighters connection blocks and then loop to the next?

 

[SLIPSHOD & SLAPDASH]

Thanks for clearing that up, saw the bit about IP in the regs and would need to increase to IPX5 with jets of water. So I presume that you would just connect the 1.5 T&E switch return from the junction box to the first downlighters connection blocks and then loop to the next?

Correct

When you get into the real world you will find many of the lights have a cheap, small connector with no earth terminal that you would be lucky to get 1 tw&e in, let alone 2.

The best way to tackle this is to wire a short length, 300mm or so of .75mm flex  to the light (2 core may be ok if there is no earth terminal) and wire this to a JB where the tw&e connect in. This also helps to stop some of the cheaper fittings pulling over due to the weight of the tw&e's.

 

[Steve100]

Thanks for that, really appreciated!!

 

[steptoe]

Correct

When you get into the real world you will find many of the lights have a cheap, small connector with no earth terminal that you would be lucky to get 1 tw&e in, let alone 2.

The best way to tackle this is to wire a short length, 300mm or so of .75mm flex  to the light (2 core may be ok if there is no earth terminal) and wire this to a JB where the tw&e connect in. This also helps to stop some of the cheaper fittings pulling over due to the weight of the tw&e's.

I try and do that where practical,

good advice.

 

[NozSpark]

Or instead of wiring into a JB wire them into a Click Flow connector

 

[steptoe]

Or instead of wiring into a JB wire them into a Click Flow connector

whats that Noz?

 

[NozSpark]

whats that Noz?

http://www.scolmore.com/flow.html

I've never seen the 4way block one though,,, looks good!

 

[steptoe]

oh, that looks good, never used them before.

 

[SLIPSHOD & SLAPDASH]

Not seen those blocks, only the male & female sets for one light. Looks pricey ?