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sellers

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Hi folks, I have a little scenario, pricing for job, regs are in the van and its getting late. The customers want their washing machine and dryer in the corner of the bathroom. Which is about 2.5 meters from the corner of the bath.

The socket would be under 3M from the bath, so in theory, not allowed. Now I either propose for the customers to have a lockable cupboard build to house the items, or to hardwire each item into a fused spur, or provide an mk masterseal socket with lockable lid.

Can anyone see how any of these would contravene regs?

 
No need for lockable cupboard IMHO......

IIRC

If there is a non locking bathroom door 1.5m away from the bath you can have a socket on the landing just the other side of the door less than 3m from the bath...

As it is not inside a room containing a bath or shower!!

BUT If open plan with no door then need the 3m rule. {e.g. part of a bedroom en-suit wash area}

Fixed partitions affect the zone layouts if you look at the drawings in BS7671 & OSG...

So just make a nice little cupboard unit with a couple of magnetic catch louver doors..

jobs a goodun..

I would probably label the socket WASHING MACHINE ONLY..

taking the pre-moulded plug off the washing machine could invalidate the manufactures warranty.

:C

 
I hate jobs like this, the customer wants one thing and you have to do it another way to comply with the regs. They get arsey and think you are being awkward. Been there soo many times. Was even worse when I was younger as you could tell that they were thinking what does this young lad know. Used to drive me mad! Haha

 
Specs...i was talking to a kitchen fitter about pre moulded plugs, he told me that cutting them off doesn't invalidate warranty as you often need to doit in a kitchen. It may however, stop a repair man working on it as he is not qualified to take it out or put it back in.

 
Specs...i was talking to a kitchen fitter about pre moulded plugs, he told me that cutting them off doesn't invalidate warranty as you often need to doit in a kitchen. It may however, stop a repair man working on it as he is not qualified to take it out or put it back in.
Sorry but IMHO that is complete tosh on almost every level...

1/ It is the manufacture who defines what invalidating a warranty is not a kitchen fitter woodworker cabinet assembler.

( I did say 'could' invalidate, but better to err on the side of caution as it aint hard to leave em on )

2/ I have fitted enough kitchens for family & friends & Myself to know it is possible to design a kitchen that no pre-moulded plugs need to be removed!......

Question....

How the heck does this kitchen fitter cope with the inlet & outlet water supplies to washers, vents to tumble driers..

sink pipes etc...

yet cant work around a 13A plug??? :C

 
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I know what your saying...but this guy really does know his stuff..his cheapest kitchen is 20k and he supplies all coolers, dish washes etc...he has hat talks with them and they told him its not a problem to take the plug off!

Also if you bought a new white good you may have to cut the plug off to retro fit it.

---------- Post Auto-Merged at 11:29 ---------- Previous post was made at 11:07 ----------

Just another thing.

White good manufactures try to get out of warranty so don't let them try it on..when you buy a white good they say 12m warranty but under eu law you get 5 years

 
They actually say that the 12month warranty is in addition to your statutory rights and while the manufacturers cover the 1st 12 months it's up to the retailer to cover your statutory rights (which are pretty vague)

 
problem i come across quite a lot is that a switched fused spur is fitted above the work top and then they fit a single socket under the unit, so they can plug the appliance in, the problem then being they have 2 x 13 amps fuses in the circuit and no fuse discrimination.

 
problem i come across quite a lot is that a switched fused spur is fitted above the work top and then they fit a single socket under the unit, so they can plug the appliance in, the problem then being they have 2 x 13 amps fuses in the circuit and no fuse discrimination.
what is the problem there.

The spur is to protect the cable I.e a spur max rating 16/20A on 2.5, the fuse in the plug is also to protect the appliance from drawing potentially damiging current in a fault condition and should be appropriate to the appliance.

That said if you use a spur direct then you should fit an appliance appropriate fuse, ie what we tend to do for boilers, alarms etc

Most kitchen fits we do have a grid with DP isolating switches feeding unswitched socket for each appliance where the fuse is housed in plugtop, no cutting off of plugs, noe feeding cable through cabinets etc etc ad naseum - good planning!!!!!

 
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