Ucatchmydrift
Well-known member
Thanks, i dont know what im going to do with myself once its finished lol, have been working on it all summer, autumn!Enjoyed reading this thread from the both of you, very interesting and good builds.
Thanks, i dont know what im going to do with myself once its finished lol, have been working on it all summer, autumn!Enjoyed reading this thread from the both of you, very interesting and good builds.
My install does use a lot of MDF because a) I have stock of it and b) I have a laser cutter that cuts it. I have however put my system in an outdoor building dedicated to the purpose and if it burns, it burns! MDF doesnt combust too well, I put loads of offcuts on a bonfire and it wasnt great.Some nice work here chaps well done. I can see the fascination and enjoyment you get from making your own batteries.
THIS IS NOT A CRITICISM... but there seems to be a lot of flammable wood and MDF in these photos.
Have you considered using something along these lines, https://www.sts-uk.com/sts-construction-boards-collection
It won't burn as its A rated, it's cheap and cuts up easy with an angle grinder and is in handy 800x1200 sheets.
I used this to line my solar cupboard out - just in case anything starts buzzing, and with some of those S/C currents at 20-40kA might be a good investment.
Cheers
Jack
Yep me too.. Its all in a metal shed in the garden. Itll be fine, all the safety stuff like breakers, class t fuses, rcds, rcbos, bms's etc.If it burns, it burns ! Lol, fair enough then!
Thanks for raising the point though, it is however something I had considered.If it burns, it burns ! Lol, fair enough then!
I have some intermessent paint somewhere, I may just give it a coat inside, then again if it burns, it doesnāt really matter.You can buy fire retardant spay for wood, don't ask me if it's any good though.
I will be specifying it on my insurance. I had a claim 5 years ago where a Ā£3 plastic pipe fitting failed resulting in an Ā£85,000 claim for flood damage. It was an interesting 18 months talking with loss adjusters whoās opening gambit was āremember Iām on your sideā my reply being a straightforward to the point ā********ā, start again. LOLCould make an interesting insurance claim, Small shed, Ā£200 + Contents, comprising batteries, inverter and control gear, Ā£kkk.
Me too, it wasnt done by me, bathroom fitters. 22 mm copper with a plastic adapter down to plastic tube used to feed a power shower (3 hp pump behind it). The plastic cracked and failed letting go, the pump was very happy to start up and empty the tank all day long. The fitting was inside a stud wall, it burst the wall flooding the upstairs floors, going through to downstairs. The coving nicely carried the water round the perimeter of the rooms downstairs. The house, every room was wrecked, all of the furniture etc. The repairs were done properly all of the plaster removed from the walls, all of the floors lifted, ceilings down etc. Some walls had to be removed because they simply did not dry out properly. I honestly thought we would never get our home back but 2 years later it was all back to normal.Call me old fashioned but I won't use plastic plumbing , except wastes, anywhere in the house.
A friend of mine had his house wrecked by a detached plastic push fit. All my plumbing is solid copper, and mostly soldered.
There's a knack to using them properly. Firstly, you have to make sure any cut pipe ends are clean and burr free so they can't damage the seals when inserted into the push fittings. Secondly they need the little pipe inserts that support the pipe ends to work properly if using plastic pipe. Thirdly, don't cut the pipe slightly short so the seal sits right on the end of the pipe, and lets go sometime later. And last but not least, buy the expensive ones, coz it's a lot cheaper than what happens if you don't.Call me old fashioned but I won't use plastic plumbing , except wastes, anywhere in the house.
A friend of mine had his house wrecked by a detached plastic push fit. All my plumbing is solid copper, and mostly soldered.
I think it's better not to use them at all, O rings fail over time etc, plastic can go brittle with age.There's a knack to using them properly. Firstly, you have to make sure any cut pipe ends are clean and burr free so they can't damage the seals when inserted into the push fittings. Secondly they need the little pipe inserts that support the pipe ends to work properly if using plastic pipe. Thirdly, don't cut the pipe slightly short so the seal sits right on the end of the pipe, and lets go sometime later. And last but not least, buy the expensive ones, coz it's a lot cheaper than what happens if you don't.
Have to say I prefer proper soldered joints for anything under pressure.
they are suppossed to be rated for hot water, but I'm not overly convinced. Thind is about water (cold) is that it does stop the seals drying out, which is what tends to cause them to fail. I'm doing a full rewire at the moment, the property has no gas, so we have tanken out the hot water tank in favour of electric water heaters under sinks etc. It will be interestig to see what the plumbers use to modify the plumbing, which is currently all copper and soldered joints.I think it's better not to use them at all, O rings fail over time etc, plastic can go brittle with age.
Enter your email address to join: