Concerned about curtain pole location.

[connormcleod]

Hi. Recently moved into a new flat and I have this large window, around 7x7ft. Limited space to put curtains. I am planning to install a curtain pole from the places marked red. I have ordered a wall scanner, but no matter what It says I am still going to want to ask you guys if this is a no-no place to drill.
There are no plugs or light switches on the entire side that this window is located. It is a first floor on a block of flats, built around 2010. UK.
If the scanner says it's clear, is it likely going to be ok to drill?

(I'm happy for the curtains to be inset from the window because I intend to put two large plants in the alcove, so I can close the curtains in the evening but then not have to worry about opening them in the morning before I go to work - to ensure my plants get daylight.)

Thanks for your help.

 

[Murdoch]

At that width, doesn’t it have a central fixing?

 

[ProDave]

If there are no switches or sockets directly below it then it should be a safe zone and and no cables there.

 

[Geoff1946]

Your possible difficulty there is drilling what could be a very hard concrete lintel, so be prepared.

If I'm in doubt about a drilling location I start very gently, first probing the plaster with a small screwdriver. If it finds plastic there is time to stop before damage occurs. Once masonry can be felt it's time to get the hammer drill out.

 

[binky]

Scanners are rather hit and miss, but if there's no other electrical stuff in that wall, you have little to worry about.

 

[SPECIAL LOCATION]

Technically your red dots are within areas that are defined as "Safe Zones" for installing electrical cables..

BUT... logically I cannot perceive any situation where it would be easier to run a cable horizontally accross the top of your bay window!!

If I were a betting man I would happily put my £50 on you being good to go with drilling your curtain fixings!

But it would still be best to try first poking and taping with a bradawl where your fixing screws need to go....
Then once you are through the plaster and reached brick you will be good to drill to your hearts content!!

As has been said... scanners are as much use as tossing a coin!!

 

[connormcleod]

Thanks for your info everyone. This is my first time doing any significant DIY so I learned about the electrical zones today, and that's part of the reason why I wanted to check with you. Because where I would be drilling is within 15cm of the ceiling. It'll also actually be the first time even operating a power drill. I think i got the right one? It's a black and decker hammer drill that says it's good for masonry. Where I'll be drilling sounds very very solid, if you know what I mean, when I knock on it. Like an exterior wall. I don't know if that's good or bad. I think I will take your suggestions and just go slowly, drill a little way then poke around with a screwdriver and see if I touch anything plastic. I assume electrical wires are encased in hard plastic shell, right?

 

[kerching]

If it was me….id mark the fixing holes, mark the overall size of the 'fixing'. Make a small hole with a screwdriver and enlarge it enough to shine a torch in BUT small enough to e covered by the pole fixing. Have a look in the hole to ascertain safe passage

 

[UNG]

Your possible difficulty there is drilling what could be a very hard concrete lintel, so be prepared.

If I'm in doubt about a drilling location I start very gently, first probing the plaster with a small screwdriver. If it finds plastic there is time to stop before damage occurs. Once masonry can be felt it's time to get the hammer drill out.

As an alternative there could be a steel RSJ or Catnic lintel behind the plaster

I always find fixing curtain rails or poles a bit of a lottery sometimes it is easier to fix a piece of 2x1 and then fix the curtain rail to that

 

[Armeg UK]

If it's a heavy concrete lintel then the Black and Decker might not cut it

With heavy duty masonry, the progress is made by a chiseling function rather than a drilling function. The B&D will have percussion function (admittedly, usually signified by a hammer symbol) but it is not true hammer action. For heavy duty masonry there really is no alternative than hammer action. Usually provided with an SDS power tool.

When I'm explaining the difference to people I usually get them to imagine the days before power tools. If anyone needed to put a hole in a concrete pillar they would use a hand-held plugging chisel (usually carbide tipped) and whack it with a big hammer (usually a sledge hammer) whilst turning it to form a round hole. The hammer blow required would be quite a heavy one due to the material. This is the principle behind hammer drilling with an SDS power tool.

Drilling heavy duty masonry with a percussion drill is the equivalent of hitting that plugging chisel with a toffee hammer.

When drilling in heavy duty masonry with insufficient hammer action the drill bit will take the path of least resistance which is usually sideways along the surface. On a plastered wall this will cut a lovely slot

Another scenario, above windows could be a catnic type lintel or RSJ. These are metal and will cause any masonry drill bit to go sideways if the only support is plaster.

If you have any issues with the above I would be tempted to fasten a batten on the top of the window reveal, finishing flush with the facing wall. You could caulk it into the reveal making it look like part of the wall and paint it. The batten could be fastened to the side cheeks of the reveal using angled brackets which will be hidden from view behind the batten.

Phil