Covering plug socket with Soundproofing

[kate197]

Hi,

I'm currently soundproofing my bedroom wall and I have 2 double plug sockets. I turned the electrics off, removed the faceplate and saw that there was enough cable to pull it forward to the other side of the soundproofing board. The trouble is it was quite tight and tricky and seeing as I dont need the other socket I would rather not have the hassle again. Can I put a blank face plate on this and board over it or not. There are 2 wires of each.

Thanks

Kate

 

[Lee321]

you need to "crimp" the cables if making inaccessable

however its not good practice

can't you just leave a hole so the socket is still there but just further back?

 

[a1]

Lee,

A blanking face plate is removable for inspection.

Welcome to the forum, Kate.

May I ask what soundproofing boards you are using please? Have you got a link to an online seller?

 

[Lee321]

Lee,A blanking face plate is removable for inspection.

Welcome to the forum, Kate.

May I ask what soundproofing boards you are using please? Have you got a link to an online seller?

i'm rather their suggesting blank plate then boarding over with sound proof

 

[kate197]

Hi,

Lostit, leaving a whole in the soundproof would potentially detract from the soundproofing quality of the board- the idea is not to have any holes/gaps.

Admin, the boards are from a London company www.soundstop.co.uk Cost of materials with VAT and delivery to cover a 9ft x 7ft wall was

 

[Lee321]

you can cover the blanking plate if the cables are crimped

or you can use connectors and have the blank plate forward. i.e so someone can get to the cables if needed

 

[kate197]

Thanks Lostit,

Just another question... is it ok for me to do the crimping or should I get a sparky? I'm assuming the crimping is connecting the 2 ends of each same coloured wire together to make a circuit?

Thanks

 

[Lee321]

need semi special tool "crimper" and crimps.

you have?

 

[Marc]

Remember you have to watch out when hiding blanking plates with regards to safe zones.

 

[Lee321]

http://wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Cable_crimping

 

[kate197]

I don't have the tools but I will be able to borrow them

Marc, I'm a novice DIYer, can you explain your post?

Thanks

 

[Lee321]

Remember you have to watch out when hiding blanking plates with regards to safe zones.

this has often stumped me as how did we ever manage to get the upstairs lighting feed up or shower?

 

[Lee321]

Marc, I'm a noce DIYer, can you explain your post?

Thanks

when there is a socket or switch you know not to hang a picture above as the cables will run at verticals or horizontal to them

but with no switch or socket you wont know there is a cable in the wall

 

[a1]

Thank You Kate and Lee.

I understand what you mean mate (now)

Katem Basically, a crimped joint is classed as a perminant joint and as such, doesn't need to be accessible for inspection. whereas joints which are screwed, such as that as a junctionbox, are classed as temporary joints and need to be accessable for inspection.

The best tool for the job is Ratchet crimpers, and the cables need to be tugged on to ensure they have a secure connection.

I tend to add heatshrink too, I won't confuse the matter further, as I need to pop out and won't be able to anser any further questions, Sorry - I will let the other guys advise.

Thank you for the link, I will have a look at that later.

Best Regards,

Admin.

 

[Marc]

I don't have the tools but I will be able to borrow themMarc, I'm a noce DIYer, can you explain your post?

Thanks

Safe zones are vertical & horizontal of an accessory, or within 150mm of a corner/the ceiling. This is where cables are "safe", and drilling etc shouldn't be done/should be only be done if you know there's nothing there. If you cover up the socket there is nothing to signify that the cables are there, so you in a few years/the next occupant could come along, forget/not realise the cables are there and go straight through them.

Lostit - Keep them within 150mm of a corner and it's easy enough.

 

[Lee321]

Lostit - Keep them within 150mm of a corner and it's easy enough.

ah thats it headbang ROTFWL

 

[kate197]

Ok, I get it now. Maybe I could cover the blanking plate with the soundproofing but the then use something externally to indicate there is a socket behind and that the cables run vertically up the wall towards the ceiling. Or maybe I should deal with the fiddly bit and pull it through?!

 

[Marc]

Ok, I get it now. Maybe I could cover the blanking plate with the soundproofing but the then use something externally to indicate there is a socket behind and that the cables run vertically up the wall towards the ceiling. Or maybe I should deal with the fiddly bit and pull it through?!

Crimp it (to extend the cables), pull through and put the socket on the surface. You might not need it now but it'll come in handy at some point.

 

[Marc]

ah thats it headbang ROTFWL

:coffee

 

[Lee321]

you could leave the socket as is.

and fit a blank plate to the soundproof

the socket will be more "sturdy" connection for the cables than connectors crimps imo

still need to make sure the socket accessable when the blank plate is removed so the soundproof will need hole which has complication too :innocent

marc means crimp the cable so they are longer to reach the new position