cu change

[paul b b]

hello chaps

have a few q's on cu changes

1. do u check every point on a cu change or is there something about 20%

2. if there was a garage with its own cu would this come into it?

3. if the only way to upgrade bondings was to damadge the walls would you still have to upgrade from 6 to 10mm?

thats all (for now)

thanks

paul

 

[Tooold]

Well everyone will give different answers but here are mine

1 More than 20% esp in kitchens and fancy lights. DPIR's start with 20% and go up if probs arise.

2 Yes, this depend on if customer is willing to pay of course.

3 Depends on the damage, you could leave them in and put it on cert but it is nice to bring it up to current regs, I cant remember last time I didnt upgrade them.

As i said only my opinion and somtimes that changes!

Kingsholm's a bit flat this year isnt it? Aint been yet not sure if i want to though

 

[paul b b]

Kingsholm's a bit flat this year isnt it? Aint been yet not sure if i want to though

the way things are going, i'm staying away too

 

[M107]

hello chapshave a few q's on cu changes

1. do u check every point on a cu change or is there something about 20%

I do after all it's me who is signing to say its all ok

2. if there was a garage with its own cu would this come into it?

Only if its fed via a submain off the cu you've changed

3. if the only way to upgrade bondings was to damadge the walls would you still have to upgrade from 6 to 10mm?

theres always...ok nearly always an alternative to damaging the walls Trunking / around exterior of building / underfloor..But run the options past the customer, if they say no then it goes down as a deviation & they counter sign my deviation sheet.

thats all (for now)

thanks

paul

.........

 

[paul b b]

so it's not a reg to check every fitting then, i supose it makes sense as it may be impractical to do it, rust screws in outside lights etc, but if poss check everything.

as anyone had problems getting sockets etc back on? i find those dry lining boxes a pain and alwas have a problem with 1 side pushing back as i try to put the screw back in.

is there a trick?

thanks chaps

 

[Zeespark]

Just locate both screws with a few turns initially, then gently push socket back to the wall and tighten each screw in stages.

AndyGuiness Drink

 

[Robin Spark]

i also keep a bag of M3.5 50mm screws with me as sometimes the threads on the orignal screws are worse for wear if really old and wont tighten. Just cut the new screw down to size (which you can do at a longer length than the original one) which will make refitting easier. I use the shearing hole on my combicutters to do this cos I dont think you should use standard bull nose pliers for this purpose.

 

[norv]

You could also do an R2 check on the metal light fittings & socket screws you cant get out