Distance from Cookers etc

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anyone know where about (if there is) how far away one has to be with a Cooker/Hob switch from the Cooker/Hob

seems to be 300mm from unit but some say this is just a guide and there is no reg to say so.

Doesn't seem any thing clear cut like the bathroom zones.

 
anyone know where about (if there is) how far away one has to be with a Cooker/Hob switch from the Cooker/Hob

seems to be 300mm from unit but some say this is just a guide and there is no reg to say so.

Doesn't seem any thing clear cut like the bathroom zones.


Bathrooms have zones due to increased the risk of electric shock, in the event of a fault, of contact between exposed skin, water and touching conductive parts....

These increased risks are not normally present in a kitchen..

(unless you do have some obscure kitchen habits!)

Common sense has to be used...

Some small kitchens could just have oven/hob/sink/drainer/fridge + 400mm of worktop.

Which if you exclude proximity to ovens & sinks then you end up with no space to have any sockets at all and nowhere for the fridge to plug into!!

(Our original kitchen was less than 8ft x 6ft.. )

Obviously where space permits you don't go fixing accessories right next to ovens/hobs/sinks etc..

 
Thank you

Wasn't a job I did , I would have switches a nice distance away from a HOB/Cooker myself

by the looks of it 10cm to the right of the Hob will be and maybe 15cm above!

 
Thank you

Wasn't a job I did , I would have switches a nice distance away from a HOB/Cooker myself

by the looks of it 10cm to the right of the Hob will be and maybe 15cm above!


IIRC the electricians guide to the building regs suggests a minimum dimension of 300mm but not sure where they get that from

 
Thank you

Wasn't a job I did , I would have switches a nice distance away from a HOB/Cooker myself

by the looks of it 10cm to the right of the Hob will be and maybe 15cm above!


the guidance is in building regs I think. Cooker switch without socket can be closer than the recommended 300mm. But you also have to consider heat from the cooker, so we can't have cooker switch above the hob itself, you would have to look at gas safety I think for that info, but I seem to remember a figure of 600mm minimum for anythoing over a hob?

 
There's an NHBC pamphlet kicking around that suggests 100mm minimum measured from the hob to the accessory. Seems a bit too close to me.

Saying that mine is sub 100mm...SWMBO changed the hob position last minute 😂

 
As there is no requirement for a cooker/hob isolation switch there is no reg about distance from something that is not required.

 
As there is no requirement for a cooker/hob isolation switch there is no reg about distance from something that is not required.
if you are talking about rcbo boards then maybe, but nobody with a brain installs an oven without DP isolation on a dual or single rcd board

them there are MIs 

 
MIs? Do you mean manufacturers instructions? If so they are guidance only. They don't have to be followed. MIs are sometimes wrong.

 
Ah, here it is. I hadn't dreamt it after all -

From IET Electricians Guide to Building Regulations 2015

5.2.2 Location of accessories in kitchens

General guidance can be provided as follows:

(a) Wiring accessories (for example, socket-outlets, switches) should be permanently and securely fixed and readily accessible. 
Accessories and electrical equipment such as socket-outlets and under-cupboard lighting can be fixed to fitted kitchen units provided that they are securely fixed to rigid parts of the units that are not demountable or otherwise liable to be disturbed in normal service. Account should be made for the accessibility for inspection, testing and maintenance, and provision of adequate protection against damage (for example, by impact or water) for the accessories, equipment and associated wiring.

(b) Cooker control switches, extractor fan switches, etc. should not be mounted so that it is necessary to lean or reach over gas or electric hobs for their operation.

(c) Socket-outlets should be installed a minimum of 450 mm from the floor.

(d) Accessories should be installed a minimum of 300 mm from the edge of kitchen sinks and draining boards to reduce the risk of being splashed.

(e) Socket-outlets supplying washing machines and dishwashers, etc. should be positioned so that water that may drip from plumbing or the equipment is unlikely to affect the socket-outlet or plug.

(f) To prevent damage to the plug and flexible cable on insertion and withdrawal the centre of a socket-outlet should be a minimum of 150 mm above the work surface.

(g) Socket-outlets supplying appliances pushed under a work surface, e.g. dishwashers, tumble dryers and fridges, should be accessible when the appliance is pulled out.

(h) Appliances built into kitchen furniture (integrated appliances) should be connected to a socket-outlet or fused connection unit that is readily accessible when the appliance is in place and in normal use, or be supplied from a socket-outlet or other connecting device controlled by a readily accessible double-pole switch or switched fused connection unit.

(i) Light switches should be readily accessible.

(j) Cooker hoods should be 650 mm to 700 mm above the hob surface, subject to (k); see section 10.5 for extract requirements.

(k) Installers shall take account of manufacturer's instructions.

Figure 5.2.2 Kitchen installation

 
Ah, here it is. I hadn't dreamt it after all -

From IET Electricians Guide to Building Regulations 2015

5.2.2 Location of accessories in kitchens

General guidance can be provided as follows:

(a) Wiring accessories (for example, socket-outlets, switches) should be permanently and securely fixed and readily accessible. 
Accessories and electrical equipment such as socket-outlets and under-cupboard lighting can be fixed to fitted kitchen units provided that they are securely fixed to rigid parts of the units that are not demountable or otherwise liable to be disturbed in normal service. Account should be made for the accessibility for inspection, testing and maintenance, and provision of adequate protection against damage (for example, by impact or water) for the accessories, equipment and associated wiring.

(b) Cooker control switches, extractor fan switches, etc. should not be mounted so that it is necessary to lean or reach over gas or electric hobs for their operation.

(c) Socket-outlets should be installed a minimum of 450 mm from the floor.

(d) Accessories should be installed a minimum of 300 mm from the edge of kitchen sinks and draining boards to reduce the risk of being splashed.

(e) Socket-outlets supplying washing machines and dishwashers, etc. should be positioned so that water that may drip from plumbing or the equipment is unlikely to affect the socket-outlet or plug.

(f) To prevent damage to the plug and flexible cable on insertion and withdrawal the centre of a socket-outlet should be a minimum of 150 mm above the work surface.

(g) Socket-outlets supplying appliances pushed under a work surface, e.g. dishwashers, tumble dryers and fridges, should be accessible when the appliance is pulled out.

(h) Appliances built into kitchen furniture (integrated appliances) should be connected to a socket-outlet or fused connection unit that is readily accessible when the appliance is in place and in normal use, or be supplied from a socket-outlet or other connecting device controlled by a readily accessible double-pole switch or switched fused connection unit.

(i) Light switches should be readily accessible.

(j) Cooker hoods should be 650 mm to 700 mm above the hob surface, subject to (k); see section 10.5 for extract requirements.

(k) Installers shall take account of manufacturer's instructions.

Figure 5.2.2 Kitchen installation


that’s probably the best worded bit of guidance and the sad thing is that few sparks will have this book

 
that’s probably the best worded bit of guidance and the sad thing is that few sparks will have this book


I have it. Got a feeling it might be also in the NICEIC Domestic Installer guide too or on their flash cards. I'll look in the morning. 

 
As there is no requirement for a cooker/hob isolation switch there is no reg about distance from something that is not required.


Just because something doesn't have a specific regulation stating an idiot-guide, step-by-step rule for semi trained 5WW to follow..

It does not mean it has no practical or functional use...

There is NO regulation stating that the lights in a room need a switch to turn them off..

But common sense suggests its a darn sight more practical being able to turn light off when you are not using them..

Very similar to the practical functionality of a local switch to turn the oven off in the event of an emergency..

or whilst doing routine maintenance such as replacing a faulty element..

Although manufactures instructions are sometimes wrong..

By definition that also means at other times they are correct..

( unless you are suggesting they are Always wrong 100% of the time? ).

:C     

 
Ah, here it is. I hadn't dreamt it after all -

From IET Electricians Guide to Building Regulations 2015

5.2.2 Location of accessories in kitchens

General guidance can be provided as follows:

(a) Wiring accessories (for example, socket-outlets, switches) should be permanently and securely fixed and readily accessible. 
Accessories and electrical equipment such as socket-outlets and under-cupboard lighting can be fixed to fitted kitchen units provided that they are securely fixed to rigid parts of the units that are not demountable or otherwise liable to be disturbed in normal service. Account should be made for the accessibility for inspection, testing and maintenance, and provision of adequate protection against damage (for example, by impact or water) for the accessories, equipment and associated wiring.

(b) Cooker control switches, extractor fan switches, etc. should not be mounted so that it is necessary to lean or reach over gas or electric hobs for their operation.

(c) Socket-outlets should be installed a minimum of 450 mm from the floor.

(d) Accessories should be installed a minimum of 300 mm from the edge of kitchen sinks and draining boards to reduce the risk of being splashed.

(e) Socket-outlets supplying washing machines and dishwashers, etc. should be positioned so that water that may drip from plumbing or the equipment is unlikely to affect the socket-outlet or plug.

(f) To prevent damage to the plug and flexible cable on insertion and withdrawal the centre of a socket-outlet should be a minimum of 150 mm above the work surface.

(g) Socket-outlets supplying appliances pushed under a work surface, e.g. dishwashers, tumble dryers and fridges, should be accessible when the appliance is pulled out.

(h) Appliances built into kitchen furniture (integrated appliances) should be connected to a socket-outlet or fused connection unit that is readily accessible when the appliance is in place and in normal use, or be supplied from a socket-outlet or other connecting device controlled by a readily accessible double-pole switch or switched fused connection unit.

(i) Light switches should be readily accessible.

(j) Cooker hoods should be 650 mm to 700 mm above the hob surface, subject to (k); see section 10.5 for extract requirements.

(k) Installers shall take account of manufacturer's instructions.

Figure 5.2.2 Kitchen installation
None of that is in the regs. It is vague guidance. Even the so called regs are not statuary.

 
None of that is in the regs. It is vague guidance. Even the so called regs are not statuary.


Nor is any of it in Tesco's...

But then...  no one actually suggested it was in the regs.

I don't think any wiring guidance has ever been "Statuary"... :C

and just for the record it is not "Statutory" either!!

:popcorn

 
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