GU10 downlight - what's the bracket for?

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Octarine

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I imagine that there's a simple answer to this but, despite looking, I can't find it.

GU10 downlights are often (but not always) supplied with a bracket that can be fixed to the lamp housing, onto which the choc-block can be fixed. Like this one:
GU10with.png
As it no doubt adds a fraction to the cost, I guess that the bracket wouldn't be supplied if it wasn't required by some regulation in some circumstances. But what regulation and what circumstances?

My best guess is that it's for use as an earthing connector - but if so, why fix the chock-block to it, and why not supply an earth wire?

I'd appreciate some enlightenment from someone who knows...
 
I imagine that there's a simple answer to this but, despite looking, I can't find it.

GU10 downlights are often (but not always) supplied with a bracket that can be fixed to the lamp housing, onto which the choc-block can be fixed. Like this one:
View attachment 16831
As it no doubt adds a fraction to the cost, I guess that the bracket wouldn't be supplied if it wasn't required by some regulation in some circumstances. But what regulation and what circumstances?

My best guess is that it's for use as an earthing connector - but if so, why fix the chock-block to it, and why not supply an earth wire?

I'd appreciate some enlightenment from someone who knows...

Nothing to do with earthing...
as a clip on bracket that can fall off cannot provide any form of mechanically robust earth connection!

Open backed cheap tat like those sort of lamps run the risk of the wires physically touching the back of the lamp..
which can cause problems of heat related damage to the wiring..
(especially if older halogen lamps are still fitted, but LED lamps still generate heat whilst in use).

The bracket is there to keep the cables away from the rear of the lamp..
I am pretty sure all open backed GU10 fitting had these sort of brackets...??

However these types of lamps from my experience are only fitted by builders, bathroom fitters, kitchen fitters, and/or similar non-electrician trades.. as a cheap bodgit & scarper installation where the customer cannot see the poor installation quality in the ceiling void above... (just their nice shiny new lights that appear to be working fine!)

Anyone with half an ounce of electrical common sense would be fitting a lamp with a fully enclosed rear can to protect the lamps and the wiring from all the reasonably expected external influences around the light fitting.

e.g. something like..
https://www.cef.co.uk/catalogue/pro...ation-gu10-fire-rated-downlight-without-bezel
Plus items such as this housing, can have optional front bezels fitted.. White/Chrome etc.. etc..
(Cheaper suppliers are available!)

The type of light fitting you illustrated are very much old-hat out of date stuff which are best avoided at all costs!!!!!
 
Open backed cheap tat like those sort of lamps run the risk of the wires physically touching the back of the lamp..

The bracket is there to keep the cables away from the rear of the lamp..
Thanks for the explanation - that makes more sense than earthing :)

So maybe the power of the bulb dictates when it is is or isn't required? Which maybe explains why some are sold without brackets now that halogen G10s are discontinued (as LEDs generate less heat) - though it would still be good to know the regulation involved, if anyone knows?

Get proper enclosed fire rated ones.
these types of lamps from my experience are only fitted by builders, bathroom fitters, kitchen fitters, and/or similar non-electrician trades.. as a cheap bodgit & scarper installation where the customer cannot see the poor installation quality in the ceiling void above
Yes, I can see why fare-rated ones are much more common these days!
 
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