Help requested with an existing 1 gang switch please

[Luddite]

Hi

In my daughters new home, I believe there used to be an external floodlight as there is a switch and evidence of there being wires to it in the past.

I think the floodlight was removed but the switch left.

Checking that verandah switch I seem to get live whether or not the switch is thrown and seek advice as to whether is has been wired correctly previously.

In the picture attached the dimmer switch, working fine (on left) which then leads to a switch in the verandah with nothing else connected to it.

There are 2 red (1 is sheathed grey) going to L1 and remain live

There is a 2nd red going to Common and becomes live when switched

There is a neutral wire that goes into a connector block.

L1 on the verandah switch is fed from L1 on dimmer  switch

L on the verandah switch has nothing connected

Neutral is fed from the dimmer switch and is terminated (via another connecter block) inside the switch box itself.

I am not convinced that it is correctly wired and would appreciate thoughts please.

Thank you

 

[Geoff1946]

That's Ok. Strictly speaking the C, (common) of the dimmer should be the supply and L1 the load, but it would only matter if wired for 2way switching. 

Similarly it would be normal at the second switch to put the live into L and connect the load to L1. Again it makes no practical difference with single way switches.

As for always seeing live at the output of the  switch, what are you testing with? 

 

[Luddite]

That's Ok. Strictly speaking the C, (common) of the dimmer should be the supply and L1 the load, but it would only matter if wired for 2way switching. 

Similarly it would be normal at the second switch to put the live into L and connect the load to L1. Again it makes no practical difference with single way switches.

As for always seeing live at the output of the  switch, what are you testing with? 

Ok thank you

So I just need to add a further wire from C (load) to L on the outside switch, is that correct please

I have two decent meters, one being a Fluke, but in this instance I just used my voltage alert pen which I find useful when I

don't need an actual reading.

That shows live when hovering around L1 (with switch on OR off)

 

[Geoff1946]

You can't test a switch with contactless tester; far too imprecise.

Simply connect your new light to C(live) and the neutral block, but hopefully you have an earth connection too.  That's essential if your light fitting has one.

In the unlikely event the switch has failed "ON" the light will be on all the time, that's all.

Presumably you know to switch off the supply before you start sticking your fingers in !

 

[Luddite]

lol

yes mate I can work that bit out.

thanks

 

[Luddite]

You can't test a switch with contactless tester; far too imprecise.

Simply connect your new light to C(live) and the neutral block, but hopefully you have an earth connection too.  That's essential if your light fitting has one.

In the unlikely event the switch has failed "ON" the light will be on all the time, that's all.

Presumably you know to switch off the supply before you start sticking your fingers in !

Think I might have C***** it up

Can you kindly check picture and tell me what needs removing as the outside switch is affecting the inside dimmer so is obviously wrong.

thanks

 

[Ardet R]

Try this instead

 

[Luddite]

Thank you

will try tomorrow and advise

 

[Luddite]

Try this instead

View attachment 9680

Thanks

Went over today and everything works fine now

Help appreciated

 

[Ardet R]

Thank you, good to hear back.