2-Gang 1-Way Lighting switch wiring problem

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SJones

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I'm trying to fit a tapo smart light switch, 2-gang 1-way, but the wiring on my current switch doesn't make sense to me.
This is my current switch which works correctly
20231014_134952.jpg

I am a complete amateur at electrical wiring but this is not what I expected to see, I expected the 2 commons to bridged not the L1 line outs, but this works so it must be correct.
The Tapo switch is different any way, with 1 Lin and 2 Louts,
20231014_135005.jpg
which I thought I understood and I intended to connect both commons to Lin and the L1 line outs to L1 out and L2 out respectively but because the original isn't wired as I expected I've now lost all confidence in trying to complete the job.
Any help would be appreciated.
 
I suspect it is just connected different and the L1s are used as Com, doesn't really matter but that is an assumption. How many lights does each switch control or is one also controlling an extract fan.
 
I suspect it is just connected different and the L1s are used as Com, doesn't really matter but that is an assumption. How many lights does each switch control or is one also controlling an extract fan.
One switch controls the main living room light and the other controls 4 separate ceiling spotlights in the kitchen.

I had a guess that it was just wired in reverse so the first thing I tried was to connect the 3 wires from the 2 L1's to Lin on the Tapo switch and the wires from the commons to L1out and L2out but this bypassed the kitchen switch resulting in the 4 kitchen spotlights permantly on and the living light wouldn't switch on at all, which is why I now have no idea what I'm looking at.
 
Theoretically what you have done is correct assuming you have not mixed up the wires.
 
Given that the label mentions batteries are they fitted or has the isolating plastic been removed if they are factory fitted batteries
That was it, I didn't put the batteries in so the switches didn't work. I just assumed the batteries would only be required for the remote functions and not the manual ones.

Thanks for everyone's help.
 
Theoretically what you have done is correct assuming you have not mixed up the wires.
That's what was confusing me, but the wiring was correct it was the batteries that were needed. Foolish mistake by me but it's all sorted now, thanks for your help.
 
That was it, I didn't put the batteries in so the switches didn't work. I just assumed the batteries would only be required for the remote functions and not the manual ones.

Thanks for everyone's help.
It's the most obvious that is often missed
 
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