HI-LO stats supply.

[Swelper]

Can anyone advise on the best method to supply "Line" as depicted on page 17 of the link?

http://www.woodwarmstoves.co.uk/_assets/manuals/new%20instructions%20fireview%20march%202010.pdf

Many Thanks.

 

[ProDave]

A switched FCU from a nearby circuit or from a dedicated circuit straight from the CU.

Remember Line and Neutral for this MUST come from the same circuit via the FCU

 

[Swelper]

Thanks for the quick responce.

Where the fcu will be situated is about 7m away from the pump. The pump will already have a neutral connection as its already installed and has its own supply from an old Towerchron dial type timer switch. So the pump will have two live switchings from separate switches.

I assume I don't need to run a second neutral from the FCU back to the pump which is a considerable distance away and cabling would be difficult?

Will "live" backfeed be a problem for the towerchron timer?

Does anyone know where I could look up images for old towerchron controls that I might identify the correct one?

 

[ProDave]

No No No No No

What you are dong is completely wrong.

You CANNOT have "two live switchings from separate switches"

and you CANNOT have neutral from a different "supply" that's called a borrowed neutral, has not been permitted for a LONG time and will trip any RCD you have in the house.

You are clearly out of your depth, so I suggest you employ an electrician who know what he is doing.

Clearly the pump is already wired doing something already, so you need someone who can design the additions / alterations needed to incorporate the stove, and then implement those modifications.

The diagram you linked to is the simplest, most basic possibility given to help you and I thought you were just implementing that. But clearly if other things power the pump as well, you cannot just simply add that to what you already have without some proper thought and design.

And in any event, any additions would use the SAME live as what's in use already.

Another example of giving us half the question and half the information needed.

 

[Swelper]

The way it has to work is the pump will be energised from either the towerchron timer or the control stats or both at once.

The solid fuel may be up to temperature and energising the pump and the towerchron timer may also energise the pump simontaneously.

That how dual systems work. Relays are usually incorporated but may not be needed.

Will a separate neutral have to be run from the fcu to the pump or will the existing neutral suffice?

 

[steptoe]

do us a diagram of what you already have and ALL the current cabling,

as proDave suggests, you cannot simply add on extra controls without re-designing the complete wiring system to suit.

ALL supply cables MUST come from the same source.

 

[Swelper]

A complete re-designing of the existing system is not an option due to costs.

That sounds like something only a vested interested shark spark would say. :yawn

A solid fuel stove has replaced an open fire which was in service for 30 years.

Once it boiled and made loud noises the client simply flicked the "Power on" switch on the towerchron timer to enable the pump. Thats how it operated for thirty years.

The control stats as you can see from the link adds some finesse to the system and has a number of advantages especially for a

 

[ProDave]

I'll just fit the fcu as prodave first suggested and fit the relay coil to the towerchron timer output and that will prevent any back feed. Its an old system so no rcd's are fitted. When he can afford a spark he'll probably get one in. I'm just doing it foc to help him out as he is a friend and cash is low.

Thanks again.

Careful. Don't take what I said out of context. I thought you were installing a new system with just the components shown in that diagram and were just asking where to get the feed.

The two pipe stats connected as shown effectively make one switch contact. What you need to achieve is that switch contact in parallel with the switch contact in the existing timer. Without further information, I can't advise how to achieve that.

You do NOT need a separate supply, use the supply feeding the timer, so there is no issue of "backfeeding" and no need for a relay if that is what you are suggesting.

We are not shark sparks, we are just suggesting you get someone who understands what is there and works out how to make the additions correctly. That does not mean you have to rip it out and start again, just that you need to understand how the stuff you have works, and how to make an alteration to it.

 

[steptoe]

OK, first things first,

cost is not an excuse when it comes to safety of life, check the statutory rules.

I said redesign the system, NOT completely rewire it!

you CANNOT add onto an existing circuit unless your addition meets the current regulations, just because it has worked for 30 years doesnt mean it is safe,

Dave has already told you you cannot simply pick up a live(line) from anywhere you chose.

 

[Swelper]

The second supply to the pump WILL backfeed to the towerchron timer. On some modern day timers that can cause the neon light to energise but have no other adverse effects.

I'm not familiar with the towerchron as its so old. So a relay is the belt and braces option.

The stove supplier thinks its a diy jobby and is happy to sign the system off, so the gurantor will pay out in the event off any problems.

 

[ProDave]

The second supply to the pump WILL backfeed to the towerchron timer. On some modern day timers that can cause the neon light to energise but have no other adverse effects.I'm not familiar with the towerchron as its so old. So a relay is the belt and braces option.

The stove supplier thinks its a diy jobby and is happy to sign the system off, so the gurantor will pay out in the event off any problems.

Which highlights why you need someone who understands it.

Draw us a diagram of how you propose to connect the relay. If you know enough to do that you don't need our help?

I wonder if you connected the flue properly, or did you save money on that and just used the 30 year old one "because it must be okay"?

 

[Swelper]

The flue isn't finished. It needed a 110mm offset ( can't be purchased) which I fabricated and didn't get finished as I had no access to a mig welder onsite. There goes the flue warranty eh?

I then swung a 150mm ring on a lathe complete with an 8mm recess for the fire rope which will form a tight compression joint to the flue and this connects to the register adaptor plate with two 16mm bolts.

What I've designed and made is superior to anything on the market as far as flues go. A 150mm flue compression ring! Try googling it.

There's no such thing but I've just invented the first one.

Just took a call from the clients son.

Heating still not working from yesterday! Airlocked.