Horizontal Cable Zones

[Evans Electric]

Oh Yeah!! And I used to drive a Ford Prefect !!

And I have nearly perfected a working Babelfish , should be useful when trying to understand the Welsh!

 

[PC Electrics]

see question 16:

New or rewired domestic and similar installations : Electrical Safety Council

 

[shed69]

Somebody wants to tell Hager about the "neutrals in a switch" phobia .... I use the Hager Sollysta range and their unique loop terminal for neutrals.... It's a winner!!!

 

[Ash]

the neutral in switch phobia shows a clear lack of knowledge of the science of electrical flow.

It really annoys me so many sparks take most regs for face value and can't place why we do things a certain way with the science behind it.

What logical reason is there for not being able to have the neutral in the switch?

 

[tom1]

So, for example, new circuit in the kitchen should you still not be adhering to socket heights to comply with Part M etc? I like the fridge etc socket at the back of an adjacent cupboard with a hole in the back for accessing the plugs. The "low" socket is DIRECTLY below one above the worktop on the ring and is itself on the ring. So all accessible and in the safe zones.

View attachment 3161

(the socket for the fridge and freezer is through the round hole under where the cat food's stored!)

p.s. Optical illusion with that socket above the worktop - it's actually 6" from the top of the worktop to the bottom of the socket!

for me, the only time a socket would go behined a kitchen unit with a hole cut out is when the customer wont pay for it to be moved.

appliances sockets in the cupboard hole saw underneth to bring the plug in, fitters can then install appliances, if no unit to fit socket or they dont want sockets in units then sfcu and flex outlet plate. that what i do anyhow

 

[flex111]

..........

 

[pewter]

I would never put a socket behind an appliance. A lot of appliances need to go right back to the wall, so it would make them stick out too much past the work top. Last year during an inspection i discovered a dishwasher had been pushed back onto the plug top. Back of dishwasher gets warm and had melted the plug top to the back of the dishwasher. When the dishwasher was pulled forward the plug top was stuck to the back of the appliance. I have a pic I was going to send into PE, I will post it up this week.

I prefer sockets chased to below work top then trunking below. For appliances I prefer to either mount on a surface box then fitter can cut a square in the back of unit or leave cable loop, pull into unit and mount surface box inside the unit. To keep price/time competitive I like to avoid too much chasing . Been doing a lot of commercial lately and I don't miss using my chiseling drill, I wouldn't be upset if I never needed it again.