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leccyman

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Hi All

This is my first post so please bear with. I am also a complete beginner in the trade as i have just passed all my exams. My mate has asked me to supply power to a new log cabin he is installing. I have a few questions.

1. I am using swa from the C/U to the cabin. Is it easy to terminate direct to the main C/U

2. Is it advisable to fit another garage c/u in the cabin as there is already rcd in the main c/u

any other ideas or suggestions

Thanks;)

 
Hi mate

where is the cu ?? is it accessable ? is it metalclad (these have round push out points for glands) ? if not then i would consider using an adaptable box for swa - T+E

what is the configuration of the cu in the house ?? is there a spareway not on an rcd ??? ie split load board

as for cu in log cabin that depends what you are supplying lights, sockets ??

give us some more info and we can help further

 
Hello Leccy man, how much power is needed in the cabin? Also are you a member of one of the approved contractor schemes to self certify and notify the Part P compliance for this work. Or are you getting the LABC to verify compliance?

Doc H.

 
hello and welcome leccy,

you could (depending on location of cu etc..) run T&E from cu to an ip rated box on the outside (100x100x50 ish), fit gland on to swa and box under ground to shed, then do the same same before, to garage cu.

i would fit an rcd in the shed for extra protection, though the supply should also have rcd proctection unless deeper than 50mm etc......

the other thing to look at doing is TTing the shed, best phone the local dno for there recomendation, elecsa say you dont but some of the guys on here do it anyway.

HTH

 
you are right.I read some of the posts and thought *********. What are they on about. No not really.

The c/u is plastic and is fairly accessable as it is in the garage on the side of the house.

The power required is to supply a couple of double sockets and 2 strip lights

My question.....what is adaptable box for swa??

 
you are right.I read some of the posts and thought *********. What are they on about. No not really. The c/u is plastic and is fairly accessable as it is in the garage on the side of the house.

The power required is to supply a couple of double sockets and 2 strip lights

My question.....what is adaptable box for swa??
all will mak sense when you do the job.

box for swa http://www.screwfix.com/prods/15488/Electrical-Supplies/Cable-Accessories/Junction-Boxes/IP65-Adaptable-Box-93-x-93-x-55mm

take the twin through the wall into the back (remember to put silocone around the hole) in to the box and put swa in to the bottom, use a conector inside. also drill a little hole in the bottom corner to act as a drain incase water does seep in

 
all will mak sense when you do the job.box for swa http://www.screwfix.com/prods/15488/Electrical-Supplies/Cable-Accessories/Junction-Boxes/IP65-Adaptable-Box-93-x-93-x-55mm

take the twin through the wall into the back (remember to put silocone around the hole) in to the box and put swa in to the bottom, use a conector inside. also drill a little hole in the bottom corner to act as a drain incase water does seep in
The box you have linked to is IP65 rated (protection against water jets). Wouldn't drilling a hole in the bottom compromise the IP rating???

 
Hi AllThis is my first post so please bear with. I am also a complete beginner in the trade as i have just passed all my exams. My mate has asked me to supply power to a new log cabin he is installing. I have a few questions.

1. I am using swa from the C/U to the cabin. Is it easy to terminate direct to the main C/U2. Is it advisable to fit another garage c/u in the cabin as there is already rcd in the main c/uany other ideas or suggestions

Thanks;)
If the supply to the shed IS via an RCD that also protects other circuits..

I would make sure that the Shed supply is also via a double pole switch so that you can easily isolate the shed sub-main....

Consider a hypothetical fault on the armored cable..

leaving N-E in contact.

this would Trip the RCD at the house..

but turning OFF the shed sub-main MCB at the house, would still leave N & E in contact at the house CU...

e.g. RCD still trips...

But a double pole switch will ALSO isolate the N!

preventing the above N-E problem tripping anything.

 
The box you have linked to is IP65 rated (protection against water jets). Wouldn't drilling a hole in the bottom compromise the IP rating???
it was an example of an ip rated box, as long as his shed is not on a jetty or he does not spray the hose at it he should be fine

 
The box you have linked to is IP65 rated (protection against water jets). Wouldn't drilling a hole in the bottom compromise the IP rating???
Don't many external fittings require a small drain hole to be drilled out, to prevent the build up of condensation?

Doc H.

 
Hi Guys

What size does the T&E to the C/U from the ip rated box :Chave to be?

 
Hi

Your cable size depends on what the load for your cabin installation and respective protective device will be along with other factors, circuit length, installation method etc.

This is called circuit design

If you are unsure of how to determine this basic information maybe it would be better to gain further training to assist You to gain competence.

This Forum is not an alternative to basic training for Electrical Installation work.

 
Beg all you want `pache; Tim is right with his comment. If the O/P has issues with this, I`d be concerned as to the prospective capabilities of the O/P to carry out the works to a sufficient standard.

But maybe thats just me..........

 
Beg all you want `pache; Tim is right with his comment. If the O/P has issues with this, I`d be concerned as to the prospective capabilities of the O/P to carry out the works to a sufficient standard.But maybe thats just me..........
TBH my comment was in jest! :|

At least the OP is asking!

 
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