Multi Tool Blades

[OnOff]

IF the correct blade is available then a multi tool MIGHT do what I need. I need to, as carefully as possible remove the flexible pipe section on my exhaust. There's a 2 bolt flange both ends. At the back it bolts onto the "long" pipe that has the centre box in. At the front onto the section that leads to the cat. It's a MK1 2.0ltr Focus btw. The flex part is blowing like an M107 job and the long pipe and cat though old are at the mo intact. Want to disturb them as little as possible.

The heads of all 4 bolts are as round as can be - not a hint of a hex head on them.

The M8, 13mm A/F nuts where it joins the cat are WELDED to a bracket, itself NOT in that good a condition. I can by asking a favour go and use an oxy set but was thinking that a multi tool with the RIGHT blade would allow me to cut through the welded nut thus preserving metal on the bracket. If I gas axe it off I might damage the bracket.

Any suggestions as to what blade would be best? These bolts are often quite hard e.g. Gr10.9 steel.

I've tried a hacksaw blade with a rag wrapped round it, a sabre saw and even a jig saw with the base REMOVED. No chance whatsoever of getting a grinder in there.Working on my back with the car raised on axle stands. If I had a pit it would be much easier I know.

Cheers

 

[steptoe]

the only thing I would say at this point is that,

the bolts are maybe meant to be welded to the bracket,

have you tried a nut splitter on the nuts?

that would be my first choice TBH

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_214334_langId_-1_categoryId_165469

not recommending that particular one, just what they are,

get a decent one, worth their weight in gold for dodgy nuts.

 

[OnOff]

the only thing I would say at this point is that,

the bolts are maybe meant to be welded to the bracket,

have you tried a nut splitter on the nuts?

that would be my first choice TBH

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_214334_langId_-1_categoryId_165469

not recommending that particular one, just what they are,

get a decent one, worth their weight in gold for dodgy nuts.

Nut splitter NOT an option. Used them at work a few times over the years. These nuts are FULLY welded ALL the way round - quite why beats the hell out of me. Only way IMO is to cut the nut/weld off flush to the plate. Moles on the rounded bolt end not an option either. Replacing with a nut bolt spring washer combo will be fine. 

I will try and take some pictures.

Poxy thing! Gave up with it yesterday. At least I managed to do the wishbone on the wife's Pug without issue this morning.

I'm too old for all this lying down in the dirt lark. Cutting piddly blocks of wood for atop the jack to protect the sills etc. (As comfy as I can make it with a couple of HV mats to lie on). Building a pit will have to move up the list of "to do" jobs! Reckon with better access from underneath I could get 'em off with the tip of the sabre saw blade.

 

[steptoe]

can you get a drill in enough to weaken the centre?

it might then simply snap the bolt, done that a few times as well, and as you only want to weaken it enough to snap it it doesnt matter about getting it central,

TBH, if they are hardened bolts I dont think a multi tool will be up to the job.

why not just cut the bracket?

 

[OnOff]

can you get a drill in enough to weaken the centre?

it might then simply snap the bolt, done that a few times as well, and as you only want to weaken it enough to snap it it doesnt matter about getting it central,

TBH, if they are hardened bolts I dont think a multi tool will be up to the job.

why not just cut the bracket?

I'll have to post a picture! The cat section passes thru the bracket so the bracket needs to stay intact. Drilling, well I could possibly drill the head out (just did that for the ball joint rivets) BUT that would leave a section of stud in the welded nut...............Drilling on the end of the stud, pending access then only if I have to! Still leaves the welded nut unless I re tap it.

I've even used a Starrett before and removed the pilot, then slipped it over the stud as a "guide" and drilled the nut off (btw MORSE brand cobalt holesaws are the mutt's nuts). BUT getting a holesaw with an ID of about 8mm? Smallest I have are 14mm so ID would be circa 11/12mm? Again will leave remnants of the weld!

 

[batty]

Maybe try a diamond blade. I did use one on some hard tiles and it did seem to work they are not that expensive so may be worth a try.

http://www.faithfulltools.com/p/FAIMFDIA65

http://www.faithfulltools.com/p/FAIMFTC65F

 

[Sidewinder]

Don't use diamond on anything that contains carbon as it will all end in tears, the carbon atoms in the blade & the material will get intimate!

Weld a nut onto the rounded bolt head and screw out.

 

[batty]

Just a thought trust me to get it wrong.

 

[Andy™]

i vote plasma cutter. or gas axe. although plasma is a little neater

is it not possible to cut the bracket above the nut, do the work on a bench then weld back into place?

 

[OnOff]

Done the thing!

MAPP torch on the fixings then a set of Sears Craftsman nut removers - I've the Irwin set myself but my bro in law's has the intermediate sizes I needed. Plus hammer, chisel, grinder. What fun!