New fridge position with no sockets

[DIY GUY]

Hi I’m moving my fridge/freezer to a new position in my kitchen which doesn’t have any sockets beside it. Could I spur from a close by double socket using 2.5 t&e to a single socket to power fridge? Or would I need to run 2.5 t&e from the double socket to a fused spur behind the fridge/freezer then a 2.5 t&e link into single socket sitting beside the fused spur. 

Any advice would be great thanks 

 

[binky]

depends is the nearest socket is part of a ring or a spur off a ring itself, or an a radial cct.

Assuming it's part of a ring, then you can take a spur off that from a single socket with fusing down, but making assumptions in kitchens is a bad idea as many have been wired by builders who think they know how to do our work. 

 

[DIY GUY]

Yeah the double socket is part of the ring mate.

Could I just spur a single socket from the double one? 
 

If not could you explain how to fuse down? Would it be 2.5 t&e to 13am fused spur then 2.5 t&e into single switched socket from the fused the fused spur? 
 

Thanks 

 

[binky]

you are allowed to directly spur a single socket off the ring, so you won't need to fuse down. Just wire with 2.5/1.5 T&E

 

[SPECIAL LOCATION]

Yeah the double socket is part of the ring mate.

Could I just spur a single socket from the double one? 
 

If not could you explain how to fuse down? Would it be 2.5 t&e to 13am fused spur then 2.5 t&e into single switched socket from the fused the fused spur? 
 

Thanks 

A common mistake often made on DIY projects is just confirming that a socket is supplied from a circuit labelled as Ring at the consumer unit..

But forgetting to check that the ring is fully intact. and that the place you are intending to extend from is not already a spur off a spur, off a ring.

A broken ring can still have power to sockets, but insufficient capacity down the cables to carry the full electrical load.

So you do need to check that the ring is intact before spurring off any socket that is part of that ring.

i.e. at the point you are intending to branch from there must be:-

2x 'Live' conductors, that have a measured continuity between them.

2x 'Neutral' conductors, with a measured continuity, (near identical to the reading between the Live's), between them.

and 2x 'Earth' conductors, with a measured continuity between them.

If there is no continuity between each of the three pairs of conductors, then either it isn't a ring, or its already spurred off a ring, or the ring is broken.

In which case you need to figure out an alternative solution.

Guinness  

 

[Geoff1946]

If I were installing a new socket for a freezer I would consider taking a single radial back to the consumer unit and to its own RCBO. That would mean no separate fault could take down the freezer. 

Viability does depend on cable routing difficulties and having a spare way in the consumer unit.

 

[DIY GUY]

A common mistake often made on DIY projects is just confirming that a socket is supplied from a circuit labelled as Ring at the consumer unit..

But forgetting to check that the ring is fully intact. and that the place you are intending to extend from is not already a spur off a spur, off a ring.

A broken ring can still have power to sockets, but insufficient capacity down the cables to carry the full electrical load.

So you do need to check that the ring is intact before spurring off any socket that is part of that ring.

i.e. at the point you are intending to branch from there must be:-

2x 'Live' conductors, that have a measured continuity between them.

2x 'Neutral' conductors, with a measured continuity, (near identical to the reading between the Live's), between them.

and 2x 'Earth' conductors, with a measured continuity between them.

If there is no continuity between each of the three pairs of conductors, then either it isn't a ring, or its already spurred off a ring, or the ring is broken.

In which case you need to figure out an alternative solution.

Guinness  

I’ve got a fluke T6-600 with a continuity bell tester and tested both lives belled out, tested both N and they belled out also with the earths, so this proves it’s part of the ring right? 
 

Thanks

 

[SPECIAL LOCATION]

I’ve got a fluke T6-600 with a continuity bell tester and tested both lives belled out, tested both N and they belled out also with the earths, so this proves it’s part of the ring right? 
 

Thanks

Yep..

sounds good to me...

Should be all OK to spur off that with your 2.5mm T&E to your new socket without any need for fusing down.

Always best to check first, as some domestic wiring isn't always what you think it is! 

Guinness  

 

[DIY GUY]

Thanks for all help